Footwear trends from Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 from the shoe buyers

Balenciaga Fall 2010 Shoes
Balenciaga Fall Winter 2010 - 2011 Shoes

I love it when the Footwear News asks the buyers their opinions of the collections. I’m always interested in what the buyers/retailers think of the collections. For the last few seasons I’ve been posting about shoe buyer’s feelings on the show. Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 is no exception.
New York

Todd Hanshaw, Fashion Director, Wynn Resorts, Las Vegas
Strongest Trends:
• Ankle booties
• Fur
• Ladylike, refined styles

“Must-Carry” Styles :
• High-heel ankle booties
• Flat-sole sandals

Shifts in Buying Strategy:
“We are absolutely growing our budget and getting behind the point of view that we represent in the stores.”

Liz Rodbell, EVP & GMM of apparel, accessories, shoes & cosmetics, Lord & Taylor
Strongest Trends:
• Military- and utility-inspired boots
• Laceups and ankle booties on a wedge or platform
• Oxfords and suede platforms

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Lace-up boots
• Booties
• Clogs

Ones to Watch:
“Key designers to watch are Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Max Azria.”

Shifts in Buying Strategy:
“Our buying strategy remains consistent. The market looks very strong for fall, and the trends are well represented.”

Tracy Margolies, VP & DMM of shoes, Saks Fifth Avenue
Strongest Trends:
• Boots in so many options: mid-shaft, tall-shaft, over-the-knee, thigh-high
• Detailing, with exposed zippers and laces
• Leopard print

Ones to Watch:
Camilla Skovgaard and Alexandre Birman

Davinia Wang, Owner, Edon Manor, New York
Strongest Trends:
• Basics
• Chunky, wooden stacked heels
• Heavy detailing and fabrics, moving away from plain and patent blacks
• Deep beige, cognac, burnt oranges and yellows for the winter

“Must-Carry” Styles from New York:
• Alexander Wang’s amber/brown, chunky, stretch ankle boot
• Joseph Altuzarra’s black, lace-up, over-the-knee boot
• Proenza Schouler’s moccasin-inspired wooden platform

Ones to Watch:
Joseph Altuzarra, Céline and Ohne Titel

Shifts in Buying Strategy:
“With the shift in the economy and people’s expectations, it’s important to add variety in my designer mix. As a boutique, I have to offer more without sacrificing my high-end vision. I have also been harder on my best-selling designers, like Givenchy, in terms of quality for the price. Many high-end designers are making [lower-quality] shoes and for [the same] high prices. So customers will tend to go for the contemporary designers for a cheaper price point but to still get a dramatic, runway-style shoe.” (source)

Milan

Linda Fargo, SVP of fashion office and store presentation, Neiman Marcus Group
Strongest Trends:
• Head-to-toe fur, including fur trimmed boots lined with shearling, or full-on fur boots
• Wedge boots and booties
• Distressed leather motorcycle boots, a bit tarnished and worn in
• Delicate and lady-like shoes
• Over-the-knee boots, which are coming in every fabrication: leather, suede and shearling, from right above the knee to thigh high
• Boy-meets-girl styles, including oxfords, loafers, man-tailored, good-year welted construction boots and lug soles
• Colored patent, particularly on the lady shoes from Prada and Miu Miu

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• The lady shoe at Prada
• Over-the-knee boots at Gucci
• Fendi’s duck boot

Ones to Watch:
• Prada
• Fendi

Barbara Atkin, VP,Fashion Director, Holt Renfrew
Strongest Trends:
• Masculine: loafer styles, lace-up oxfords and brogues
• The feminine shoe, from pumps to T-straps and ankle straps
• The sporty lace-up with varied heel heights in a variety of fabrications, from leather and suede to velvet, with capped or open toes
• Boot leggings in a second skin, or a printed leather, a neutral or richly colored suede
• Open-toes with a wedge or high heel

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Jil Sander motorcycle boot
• Marni clog/wedge
• Prada T-strap pump (source)

Paris

Todd Hanshaw, DMM, Wynn Las Vegas
Strongest Trends:
• Texture, whether from layering suedes, multimedia or fur
• An amazing amount of work on the heels, creating new and different lines to the heel (for example, the candle wax heel from Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte)
• Feathers

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Over the knee boots, from the extreme at Azzedine Alaïa to the more conventional at Brian Atwood
• Daniele Michetti’s [mirrored] spectator pump with napa trim and croc toe
• Nicholas Kirkwood’s leather and lace platform bootie

Ones to Watch:
• Chrissie Morris
• H Williams
• Charlotte Olympia

Buying Strategy: “Our buying strategy remains the same as far as searching for new talent and special items. However, we absolutely are growing and investing more with the vendors we have a strong history with. It really is a great shoe season. There is a lot of creativity out there and, especially in Paris, a very good energy and strong collections from many.”

Tracy Margolies, VP & DMM of women’s footwear, Saks Fifth Avenue
Strongest Trends:
• Lace-up boots
• Fur/shearling boots and booties
• Clog bottoms
• The return of the classic pump, especially with a pointy toe
• New exotics, such as frog, lizard and stingray, especially in colors

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Fur boot
• Classic pump
• Blue, green or purple

Ones to Watch:
• Alexandre Birman
• Chrissie Morris
• Daniele Michetti
• Diego Dolcini

Jeffrey Kalinsky, President, Jeffrey New York and Atlanta
Strongest Trends:
• The lack of the shoe. Footwear is really a bootie or a boot.
• Heights are either high or flat, with not many choices in between

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Givenchy patent leather lace-up bootie
• Thigh-high Louboutins
• All the footwear choices at Lanvin

Buying Strategy: “Footwear prices seemed expensive to me again for fall. It’s becoming more and more challenging for brands to find ways to keep their quality and their craftsmanship while maintaining retail [prices] that make sense to the consumer. There is some real opportunity out there for the brands that can figure that out.”(source)

By Anita Clarke

Anita Clarke is an Engineering Storyteller and the founder of the fashion blog “I want – I got.” She was one of the first and most prominent online fashion writers in Toronto and Canada.