TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Lucian Matis

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Lucian Matis
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Lucian Matis

Lucian Matis fashion shows are just an absolute delight. Lucian gave us prints, transparency and leather for the spring summer 2013 Lucian Matis collection. The prints are lust worthy. The images chosen for the prints added depth to garments and made use of seams to create direction and structure with the print on the manipulated fabric.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Lucian Matis
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Lucian Matis

“I named this collection MOSAIC as it is inspired by the mosaics of Morocco in contrast with the transparency and neutrality of the papyrus,” says designer Lucian Matis of his latest collection, “I was always taken and inspired by the beauty of the Moroccan art and it’s ornate elements. Spring/Summer 2013 seemed to be the perfect timing for this inspiration.” Present throughout the collection were a mix of custom pattern designed fine cottons, silks, leather, and crocodile embossed leather (Source: Press Release)

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Lucian Matis
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Lucian Matis

It was slowly becoming apparent that two trends were going to dominate fashion week: the Peplum and the Midriff. I love the peplum and hope it turns into a trend that sticks around. The Midriff I could do without. I didn’t like it in the 90s and I don’t really like it now. I have a weird feeling about the midriff when it’s part of a 50s silhouette.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Lucian Matis
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Lucian Matis

This is the most accessible Lucian Matis collections I’ve seen. Lucian is know for impeccable work and crazy dresses but they haven’t been the most accessible to the average consumer. I watched this show and saw something that many women could wear in their daily lives. Okay, maybe not the transparency and the leather. Yes, the finale crocodile embossed leather looks. Wow. Wow. Wow.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Lucian Matis
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Lucian Matis

You can see the rest of the looks from the Lucian Matis Spring Summer 2013 show at World Master Card Fashion Week after the jump.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell

Evan Biddellwas one of my must see shows during the Spring Summer 2013 World Master Card Fashion Week in Toronto. This was my must see show of the week. I planned to drop Tuesday from my fashion week plans as it conflicted with the New Order concert but I couldn’t miss Evan. He took a break from fashion week after the amazing Kingdom collection of Spring Summer 2011. aMUSE, is the title of the Spring Summer 2013 Evan Biddell collection.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell

“This collection isn’t about fads or colour trends, it’s about a girl and her multi-faceted personalities.” says Biddell, “her style is bipolar of sorts, she doesn’t care what other people are wearing, nor does she care if you approve of what she is wearing.”(Source:Press Release)

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell

The show began with a short film created by Evan and Atomic Clock Cinematic Arts Inc. I’m not a big fan of screening a short film before a show. It’s usually hard to see and people can only pay attention for so long when they can’t see. Thankfully the USB press kit included the video and I watched it in the comforts of my home. It’s one of those tweaked classical music backed, slow mo camera, voluminous and flowing fabrics with a wind machine shorts that are hauntingly beautiful when well done. I liked it, what do you think?

aMUSE is an eclectic collection featuring pop art, leather and animal prints. Most of all, it’s classic Biddell: loud prints, architectural shapes, fringe, leather and drapey asymmetry. Rita Tesolin created the jewellery. It’s massive. After the show Evan commented on how some broke due to the weight back stage. The next day I saw Stacey McKenzie rocking one of the runway looks. She created some contraception using tape to keep them on. Oh those fashion secrets.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell

Maybelline New York’s Lead Makeup Artist Grace Lee came up with for Evan Biddell. You can view Evan Biddell Spring Summer 2013 beauty shots on the Maybelline Flickr Page.

The collection is based on the MUSE. An individual, more refined, more grown-up club kid. Glowing skin paired with overdrawn, intense glossy red lips, creating a HUGE impact on the runway. Grace and her team used Super Stay 14HR Lipstick in Ravishing Rouge and Color Sensational High Shine Gloss in Gleaming Grenadine to create the kissable lip.(source: Press Release)

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Evan Biddell

Classic Biddell isn’t something that only gets love from me. The collection needed to be bigger and it lacked the cohesion delivered in spring summer 2011. I liked his idea of a conveyor belt runway. It screwed with some photographers through.  You can see the rest of the looks from the Spring Summer 2013 Evan  Biddell show at World Master Card Fashion Week after the jump.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jeremy Laing

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Jeremy Laing
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jeremy Laing

I’m so delighted that Jeremy Laing has fashion shows in Toronto now. Seeing his clothes in person can’t be matched, even with the great video and streaming technology that exists today. The Spring Summer 2013 Jeremy Laing collection brought me back to the mid nineties. I was in university and spending my time going to concerts and dancing at raves in front of much too loud speakers. The models walked by and Snug Industries kept popping into my head. Then the pants reminded me of the printed sarong wrap pants like the kind you could buy from a vendor at Lollapalooza in Barrie. I was having a full on 90s flashback.

The sportswear theme ran strong in this collection with shapes influenced by basketball and baseball. Jeremy continued the layering theme of fall winter 2012 into spring by utilizing lightweight fabrics. Embellishments on the shoulders, flak vests and bombers gave a military/urban warrior feeling.

The colour palette was called Swamp Deco because of a recent trip to New Orléans. It included a lot of slate, black, moss and white. The fabrics sound as awesome as they look with names like techno chiffon, tarnished foil chiffon and pigment-dyed cupro/cotton.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Jeremy Laing
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jeremy Laing

Obviously I loved the collection like everything that Jeremy does. You can see more photos from the Jeremy Laing Spring Summer 2013 collection after the jump.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni

The spring summer 2013 Pavoni show was fun. I usually don’t pay much attention to evening wear and when I do my style is sleek and understated. I saw Sister Act, The Musical a couple weeks ago. That show was full of sequins. There were everywhere and the light hit them from all angles. I was memorized. A sequin/shiny switch clicked in my brain and now I’m paying attention.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni

Designers Gianni Falcone and Mike Derderian were inspired by Le Chateau de Versailles and all the opulence of that doomed age. The guys had this to say about their inspiration:

“The allure of decadence, the glamour of a time long passed… This season, “Le Chateau de Versailles” and all its opulence becomes our muse. Let this PAVONI collection whisk you away to a place where sultry lace, jewel encrusted silk, glistening gold and unbridled romance defined an era! Sneak away to the lush royal gardens to steal a kiss under the moonlight, or dance till dawn in the hall of mirrors. For tonight, the world is yours for the taking…”

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni

It’s a treat to see over the top evening wear on the runways in Toronto. The dresses are expertly crafted and exquisite living up to the Pavoni name. Pavoni is peacock in Italian.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni

This is what Maybelline New York’s Lead Makeup Artist Grace Lee had to say about the Pavoni makeup inspiration. You can see Pavoni Spring Summer 2013 beauty shots on the Maybelline flickr site.

The vision for Spring 2013 is high glamour, inspired by Versailles. A makeup artist’s dream, the look was lashes, liner, contouring and highlighting. Models wore decadent gowns and lids shimmered with gold and brown hues, while pouts were perfected with Color Sensational High Shine Gloss in neutral tones.(source: Press Release)

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni

I’m never in the market for an ornate gown but the cocktail dresses and gowns in good old black and embroidery heavy black and camel are looking good to me.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pavoni

See more images from the Pavoni Spring Summer 2013 show at World Master Card Fashion Week after the jump.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pink Tartan

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Pink Tartan
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pink Tartan

Pink Tartan brought out the a list fashion folk. She enlisted Maybelline New York Spokesmodel Charlotte Free and Irina Lazareanu to model. Annabel Tollman, celebrity stylist lent a hand to pull the runway looks together.

“This collection has been inspired by geometric shapes, sharp lines and defined angles. I have incorporated an intricate geometric cut or detail into each piece of the collection in a non-traditional manner. The end result is a collection that dynamic, exciting and ultimately Pink Tartan this season.” – says President and Head Designer, Kim Newport-Mimran (source: Press Release)

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Pink Tartan
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pink Tartan

The collection looked influenced by the 50s and Greaser culture. There were plenty of full skirts, sweetheart necklines and high-waisted bottoms. There were a lot of classic shapes featured but the details were in the fabric and colour choices. I enjoyed the contrast of the show. There was the first, lighter half with the delicate mint, pink, white and silver. The brocade details add some texture and uniqueness classic looks.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Pink Tartan
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pink Tartan

The second, darker half of the collection featured black and gold. It reminded me of when Sandy gets into her hot leather gear at the end of Grease. When Sandy isn’t wearing leather, I picture her wearing these Pink Tartan pieces.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Pink Tartan
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pink Tartan

I like the daily dispatches at fashion week. Maybelline sends out makeup updates. Here is what Maybelline New York’s Lead Makeup Artist Grace Lee came up with for Pink Tartan. You can view Pink Tartan Spring Summer 2013 beauty shots on the Maybelline Flickr Page.

Maybelline New York makeup artist Grace Lee created a natural, soft look. The delicate makeup was a mix of gorgeous dewy skin and feminine pink lips – complimenting the clean, architectural lines of the collection. Kim Newport-Mimran, President and Head Designer of Pink Tartan, is always on the lookout for what is fresh, new and inspiring – so having Maybelline New York muse Charlotte Free open and close the show ensured that these three elements were brought to the runway.(source: Press Release)

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Pink Tartan
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pink Tartan

This was also the debut of the Pink Tartan x Aldo Rise shoes. Glad to see another Canadian in the program.

Kimberley Newport-Mimran, President and Head Designer of Pink Tartan, teamed up with ALDO to design footwear as part of the ALDO RISE program. Working in collaboration with the ALDO footwear design team, the result is a timeless yet contemporary single soled pump that hits key trends for the season. Presented in graphic black and white, the block trapeze-shaped, metallic electroplated heel adds a chic modernity to the classic leather upper and almond toe. Equally luxurious is Pink Tartan’s signature quilted clover with repeating pattern on the leather insock and lining, offering the ultimate in comfort and sophistication.

“We’ve been fans of Pink Tartan from the get-go. They’re a proudly Canadian brand that continues to raise the bar while delivering right on target. Working with Kimberly has been a genuine pleasure – she’s a class act. Her elegant taste and timeless aesthetic pushed our design team to develop a style that feels like an instant classic.” – Douglas Bensadoun, Creative Director – VP Marketing, ALDO Group.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Pink Tartan
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Pink Tartan

I enjoyed this collection. I thought the mint and pink would turn me off but I’m getting softer in my old age. It’s pretty easy to buy my love with full skirts in most absolute favourite length, the Tea Length. You can see the rest of the looks from the Spring Summer 2013 Pink Tartan show at World Master Card Fashion Week after the jump.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Holt Renfrew

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Holt Renfrew
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Holt Renfrew

The tile of this post is a bit of a misnomer because Holt Renfrew didn’t show any looks from the spring summer 2013 season. Instead they opted for a showcase of merchandise Canadian and international that is available in stores now. I don’t have much to say about in general since these clothes originally went down the catwalk in March.

“Tonight we’re proud to present a special take on ‘Canadian Catwalk’ — celebrating Holt Renfrew as the destination for those who love fashion”, said Alix Box, Senior Vice President of Sales & Marketing for Holt Renfrew. “Our runway showcases this unique moment in our 175 year history with an inspiring collection of contemporary and designer fashions to wear right now.”(source: Press Release)

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Holt Renfrew TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Holt Renfrew

Holts opted to hold a breakfast fashion show that showcased their Canadian designer’s spring summer 2013 collections. I missed this cause it was too early in the morning, ha ha.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Holt Renfrew TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Holt Renfrew

The show had about 65 looks and they had all the best models ripping through those looks. It didn’t seem like a long show at all. Designers featured in the show included: Dsquared2, Lida Baday, Jeremy Laing, Pavoni, Smythe, Kenzo, Tom Ford, Victoria Beckham, YSL, Alexis Bittar, Ela, Dean Davidson, Lilliput, Maryam Keyhani, Michael Kors, Van der Straeten, Lanvin, Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik, Prada, Rosegold, Acne, Alexander Wang, Isabel Marant, Burberry Porsum, Fendi, Dolce and Gabanna, Carven, Celine, Kenzo, Canada Goose, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Phillip Lim, Rag and Bone and Judith & Charles. The models were clad head to toe in Holt merchandise.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Holt Renfrew
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Holt Renfrew

It was an uneventful show but I bet this gamble paid off for Holt Renfrew. I’m sure it stirred up some fashion emotions in people and I bet sales in the items featured are up. I’m kinda surprised Holt Renfrew didn’t show in season merchandise for all their runway shows. There were a lot of drool worthy items in the show and I love, love, love this Celine coat.

Photos: Paul Ross and Mirian Njoh for OPIQUE / Top of the Runway

TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jean-Pierre Branganza

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Jean Pierre Branganza
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jean Pierre Branganza

Jean-Pierre Branganza is another ex-pat living in London. He’s the kind of designer who I could see myself dressing head to toe in (If I could afford it that is). Saying his name to anyone who asks “who are you wearing” would be a hoot too. The man has the best name. I love his angular designs rendered in bright colours. His clothing reminds me of the near future, something I always gravitate to.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Jean Pierre Branganza
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jean Pierre Branganza

The Jean-Pierre Branganza Spring Summer 2013 collection was inspired by Ukrainian artist/designer Zinaida Lihacheva’spaintings “Transormation” and “Touch”.The results are bold and work very well with the Jean-Pierre Branganza aesthetic. As a fan, the collection didn’t disappoint. I want everything.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Jean Pierre Branganza
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jean Pierre Branganza

Jean-Pierre’s shift dresses are always a staple in my mind but the jumpsuits and suiting looked really great. He stuck to his signature bold colour and geometric aesthetic. He is another designer who had a strong style that makes it a signature and unmistakeable.
TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Jean Pierre Branganza
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Jean Pierre Branganza

See more photos and a video from the Jean-Pierre Branganza Spring Summer 2013 show.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 РChlo̩ Comme Parris

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Chloe Comme Parris
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Chloe Comme Parris

I just wanted to start by thanking Chloé comme Parris sarcastically for reminding me that I won’t be in L.A. this November like last year. The Spring Summer 2013 collection was a dreamy California trip. I almost expected to see a wave crash down on the opposite end of the runway. It made me miss California in a big way.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Chloe Comme Parris
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Chloe Comme Parris

The collection’s fabrics had a delicate, sun bleached feel. There was lot of flowing silk chiffon in shirts, caftans and spaghetti strap, floor grazing sundresses. Strategic thigh slits brought a bit of sex appeal to this All American Girl collection.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Chloe Comme Parris
TFW Spring Summer 2013 – Chloe Comme Parris

The duo also featured their Spring Summer 2013 jewellery collection and I spotted my next set of statement earrings. The Shaped hoop earrings are just so good.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Chloe Comme Parris
TFW Spring Summer 2013 РChlo̩ Comme Parris

The leather shorts are fantastic and have such a flattering cut.  The dusty pink leather moto jacket was another standout piece of the collection.

TFW Spring Summer 2013 - Chloe Comme Parris
TFW Spring Summer 2013 РChlo̩ Comme Parris

Chloe Chloé Parris delivered another beautiful collection. I’m impressed at how Chloé and Parris have created such a focused identity for the brand. It’s distinct and power, things I think are vital to success. Prior to Toronto Fashion Week, the collection was part of the GenArt show during NYFW. It was their debut showing at NYFW and I’m sure it there will be more.

You can view more photos from the Spring Summer 2013 Chloé Comme Parris collection after the jump.

Toronto Fashion Week’s New Players

FDCC

The Fall Winter 2012 – 2013 fashion season is approaching. The FDCC has cleaned house and the event formerly called LG Toronto Fashion Week Beauty by L’Oréal Paris is now called World MasterCard Fashion Week. Yes, one long name for another long name. I hate to say that both are kinda obnoxious but events need sponsors and that jazz. However, I also lament the lack of Toronto in the new name and with the event in general. I’ll probably go back to using TEFW (Toronto Extended Fashion Week) to describe our two weeks of fashion a season. Apparently, I called this new fashion week partnership way back in November in a drunken conversation I don’t remember when Danielle visited.

“World MasterCard Fashion Week is one of the world’s most anticipated fashion events bringing together established names, emerging designers and luxury brands,” said Betty DeVita, President of MasterCard Canada. She adds, “Fashion is a key element of our Priceless Toronto and global Priceless Cities initiative. Through Fashion Week we are celebrating Toronto as Canada’s quintessential destination for all things stylish. We encourage everyone to experience all that Toronto has to offer.”

In addition to the new title sponsor, the FDCC brought in Maybelline New York as the make up sponsor. Maybelline New York is part of L’Oreal Group so this is an interesting change of brands. Torontonian, Grace Lee, Lead Make Up Artist Canada will be the head makeup guru for the week.

“I am honoured to represent this amazing brand and use my experience to forecast the beauty trends for Fall at World MasterCard Fashion Week,” says Lee. “I’m most excited about showcasing new products backstage – the looks I’ll be creating with the designers will be so accessible and affordable for the consumer. Canadians will learn firsthand how to make runway beauty wearable.”

Finally, Redken 5th Avenue Canada is the new official hair sponsor for WMCFW. Toronto backstage team will be lead by Jorge Joao, Redken Global Performing Artist, professional hair stylist and]salon co-owner of KOI Hair Studio.

“Working with designers to create a memorable look that helps build their fashion story is key,” says Joao. “The Redken team is committed and we look forward to delivering new silhouettes, textures and styles for Canadian fashion.”

This is some major switching of the guards happening here and I’m very curious to see what these new players bring to Toronto Fashion Week. I’m excited about fashion week again. I like this feeling.

image: courtesy of FDCC

the shOws – CALLA Spring Summer 2012

the shOws - CALLA Spring Summer 2012

CALLA is one of the four designers that showcased their Spring Summer 2012 collections with the the shOws at the Ritz-Carlton. the shOws is the brainchild of Paola Fullerton.

the shOws - CALLA Spring Summer 2012

“Our aim is to put the spotlight on Canadian Designers, Hair and Makeup Artists and Models and build a property that benefits not only our designers, artists and retailers but also our supportive sponsors, by showcasing the very best of Canadian talent at home and abroad to our media, buyers and stylists.

The purpose of The ShOws is to bring together our most talented and creative Canadian designers each season and allow them to present their collections here in Toronto to the fashion industry without incurring any production costs themselves. We want to support them here at home and give them every possible opportunity to continue to build their brands.” – Paola Fullerton, Founder & Creative Director

Calla Haynes continued her digital print mastery and delighted the crowd with a collection that sat perfectly on the edge of femininity without being too saccharine. The inspiration for Spring Summer 2012 was translating the feeling of being at a festival and hearing great music into prints and colour. The collection played with different colours and prints as well as textures.  Tweed contrasted with marble like digital prints.

the shOws - CALLA Spring Summer 2012

Full collection photos for Calla Haynes’s Spring Summer 2012 on torontolife.com.

The CALLA Spring Summer 2012 collection also made it’s first debut on Style.com. The video on style.com gives you a close up of the prints and different textures in the collection that my video can’t provide. It’s these details that make the collection so special.

Image: Jenna Marie Wakani

the shOws – Jean-Pierre Braganza Spring Summer 2012

the shOws - Jean-Pierre Braganza Spring Summer 2012

Jean-Pierre Braganza is one of the four designers that showcased their Spring Summer 2012 collections with the the shOws at the Ritz-Carlton. the shOws is the brainchild of Paola Fullerton.

“Our aim is to put the spotlight on Canadian Designers, Hair and Makeup Artists and Models and build a property that benefits not only our designers, artists and retailers but also our supportive sponsors, by showcasing the very best of Canadian talent at home and abroad to our media, buyers and stylists.

the shOws - Jean-Pierre Braganza Spring Summer 2012

The purpose of The ShOws is to bring together our most talented and creative Canadian designers each season and allow them to present their collections here in Toronto to the fashion industry without incurring any production costs themselves. We want to support them here at home and give them every possible opportunity to continue to build their brands.” – Paola Fullerton, Founder & Creative Director

Jean-Pierre Braganza is a Toronto ex-pat who has shown at London Fashion Week since 2004. He worked with Roland Mouret before starting his own label. Jean-Pierre was my favourite of all the shOws designers. His bold prints, strategic cutouts, asymmetrical details and geometric designs won me over from the first studded look. There were a lot of Art Deco influences in the collection expressed with prints and silhouettes. How could I not love a man who loves crazy platforms. The shoes complemented the collection perfectly. Jean-Pierre teamed up with UK-based shoe company Dune to produce these beauties.

the shOws - Jean-Pierre Braganza Spring Summer 2012

He perfectly balanced his neutral staples like black, grey, white and cream with vibrant orange and red. I liked the subtle hip level cutouts he featured in blazers and dresses. It was an accessible way to add a bit of skin to a garment without scaring away potential women buyers. Jean-Pierre’s spring summer 2012 inspiration includes The German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Ben Nicholson and his studio beauties. The collection had a good balance of dresses, suiting and separates with all pieces being more desirable than the next.

the shOws - Jean-Pierre Braganza Spring Summer 2012

I stopped taking photos and video on the second day of the shows but I found a video from London Fashion Week. The lineup and music are exactly the same.

Full collection photos for Jean-Pierre Braganza’s Spring Summer 2012 collection are on torontolife.com. Jenna’s photos are amazing.

Jean-Pierre Braganza is available in Toronto at
Carte Blanche
758 Queen Street West
Toronto
(416)532-0347

Image: Jenna Marie Wakani, tumblr.com

the shOws – Thomas Tait Spring Summer 2012

the shOws - Thomas Tait Spring Summer 2012

Thomas Tait is one of the four designers that showcased their Spring Summer 2012 collections with the the shOws at the Ritz-Carlton. the shOws is the brainchild of Paola Fullerton.

“Our aim is to put the spotlight on Canadian Designers, Hair and Makeup Artists and Models and build a property that benefits not only our designers, artists and retailers but also our supportive sponsors, by showcasing the very best of Canadian talent at home and abroad to our media, buyers and stylists.

The purpose of The ShOws is to bring together our most talented and creative Canadian designers each season and allow them to present their collections here in Toronto to the fashion industry without incurring any production costs themselves. We want to support them here at home and give them every possible opportunity to continue to build their brands.” – Paola Fullerton, Founder & Creative Director

Thomas Tait studied at La Salle College in Montreal and then went on to graduate with an MA from London’s Central Saint Martins. He was the youngest person to do so. Thomas’s second collection is my first real exposure to Tait’s designs. I had heard his name before but was pretty ignorant to what the collection looked like.

the shOws - Thomas Tait Spring Summer 2012

The show started out with some Balenciaga like cocoon coats. This would be typical of his minimal design focus. Many pieces had voluminous shapes that hid the curves of the body and produced a straight line silhouette. The styling, colour palette and clothing made me think of golf and tennis for some reason. Thomas Tait had a really interesting fabric that shimmered in the light and had a bit of texture. Thanks to the internet I learned that it is a pleated jersey with a clear print and coloured foil overlay. It worked well with his neutrals of black and white as well as the pastel pink and greens that added a pops of colour.

the shOws - Thomas Tait Spring Summer 2012

Overall, I liked the collection. I love the minimal silhouette and the fabric treatments. Thomas Tait collaborated with Cutler and Gross on the fabulous eyewear.

Full collection photos for Thomas Tait’s Spring Summer 2012 on torontolife.com.

Image: Jenna Marie Wakani, Cutler and Gross Facebook

Line Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Line continued their ready to wear expansion for the fall winter 2011 – 2012 season. The season adds coats and pants to their traditional line up of knits. The collection was very 70s in terms of palette and style. Typical colours like orange, blue, mustard, beige and burgundy complimented neutrals of black and grey. The knit textures included cable, crochet, patchwork and loops.

Line was one of the many designers that used fur this season but it was used sparingly. I always talk about my granny nature with fur and Line stuck to the traditional with raccoon stoles, collars and trim. The rabbit fur biker jacket was an interesting modern take on fur but I felt the raccoon vest was overwhelming on the body. My granny fur sensibilities didn’t prevent me for loving the rabbit fur knit which was used in some beautiful open wraps.

The floor length cable knit dress sounded great on paper but didn’t deliver for me in person. It seemed a bit too restricting, perhaps a side slit would help. The floor length crochet dresses are some of my favourite, especially in mustard. I also loved the chunky patchwork open wraps. Line still does great pants and I’m very interested in the wide leg and skinny velvet options. Of course, I want a shearling leather jacket, badly.

I loved the show overall but I felt the styling was a bit heavy. It was pretty boho and sometimes there was just too much going on.

Check out photos from the Line Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 show on Torontolife.com.

Also check out the TDot TV video where the designers talk about their inspiration. I also have a short interview about the collection too.

DUY x Aldo Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

DUY x Aldo Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

 

Aldo Shoes is on a collaboration roll too.  During Rouge Fashion Week they partnered with Greta Constantine on some limited edition footwear.  DUY paired up with Aldo during LG Fashion Week for a limited edition collection of accessories.

This collection of elegant and slightly rebel shoes and accessories pays homage to his Muse, her sophistication and distinctive sense of aesthetics. Faithful to her vision, the various pieces of this collection integrate the elements that made Daphne Guinness famous: leather, textured materials (python, lace), prints (leopard) and fur (pony), caramel hues and dark shades (grey and black). The FW 2011 ALDO collection of shoes and accessories for DUY is an stunning blend of radical chic, flexibility and accessibility. A collection which truly combines modernism, sophistication and elegance.

 

 

Um you’re on WWD

WWD.comApril 13 2011

I was in meetings all morning and when I finally returned to my desk my twitter replies were blowing up. Something is up, I thought to myself, I haven’t even tweeted yet. Turns out WWD did a street style post for LG Fashion Week and I was snapped with my friend Caroline Shaheed. The title of this post was the best email subject line I received all day. It best represents the shock of finding out.

WWD.comApril 13 2011

Can you say freaking the fuck out! I’m stunned by this and doing a little happy dance. It’s silly but I have to admit I totally love this. All the shots are stealthy ones, I love it. I remember photographer James Lourenco taking our photo as we walked but didn’t think anything of it at the time. I’m so happy I’m not carrying a Starbucks coffee cup in this shot, ha ha. You can see the rest of the street style shots from LG Fashion Week at They Are Wearing: Toronto – EyeScoop on WWD.com.

This outfit also landed me on the Flare.com LG Fashion Week street style pages.

Flare March 31 2011

Outfit Breakdown – Gap circle scarf, Alexander Wang sunglasses, Ash Boots, Gap army jacket, Club Monaco Blazer, Juma Spring Summer 2011 silk tshirt, Le Sportsac x Stella McCartney bag, pants Gap, Gamercamp Pin.

Anu Raina Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

AnU RaiNa Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Textile artist, Anu Raina debuted her hand crafted clothing line at LGFW.  Anu Raina Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 features hand dyed and printed pieces. She used details such as excerpts from her poetry, painting and embroidery.

“This collection is an extension of my Autobiographical artwork titled Chapter 2, Page 1, that is going to be exhibited at
Pearson Airport from April16 to October 3, 2011,” says Anu Raina “”My work has evolved as a juxtaposition of my urban and the traditional self that I left behind. In this collection, I have tried to trace my own transition. I have used motifs like haystack, paisley, Talim – a weaving code of Pashmina shawls – marks I made with toothpaste on the mirror, and the things I grew up with around me. I have tied it all with a poem in French I once wrote about my mother, which would roughly translate in English as:
When I was little
I woke up very late.
I would wait for my mother to come and wake me up.
She would know very well that my sleep was just a big pretension.
She would smile at me and in her arms she would pick me up and I would open
my eyes slowly to see the smiling face of my mother.” (source: press release)

AnU RaiNa Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Anu Raina used silk, wool, viscose, chiffon, organza, taffeta and modal. The collection featured easy wearing pants, tops and dresses. There were a lot of beautiful scarves in the collection, I can see these being very retail friendly. I liked the dressed and tunics in the collection more than the other separates.

AnU RaiNa Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Watch the Anu Raina Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show


See photos from the Anu Raina Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection

Photos taken for I want – I got by Paul Ross of Opique.com

Klaxon Howl Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Klaxon Howl Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Samuel L. Jackson was the only massive celebrity to attend LGFW. Random is the only word to describe his attendance at Klaxon Howl. One of my favourite moments of LGFW was tweeting about Mr. Jackson’s arrival. Ha Ha. Some people thought it was an April Fool’s joke. I did miss out on getting a photo with him but I did see him in the flesh. I guess when The Hudson’s Bay is backing your line things like this can happen. Klaxon Howl fall winter 2011 – 2012 was a very commercial menswear collection. The military influenced collection used a white, grey, blue, brown and black colour scheme. There was a lone coral coloured button up, which seemed out-of-place in the collection. The collection featured the basics: coats, denim, button up shirts, vests and pants. There was a lot of buzz about the handbag collaboration between Klaxon Howl and The Hudson’s Bay.

Klaxon Howl x Hudson's Bay Company

The fashion show was half runway and half presentation. I think the main runway room is too large to pull this format off successfully. The models are too far apart from each other. You don’t get that panoramic photo experience that a presentation in smaller room provides. There is some Behind the Scenes video care of MTV FORA that gives you a peek at the show. It’s nice to see a Canadian retailer invest in a brand. I hope to see more of it the future.

Klaxon Howl Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

See the Klaxon Howl Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show

Klaxon Howl Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

See photos from Klaxon Howl Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 at LG Fashion Week

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Photos taken for I want – I got by Paul Ross of Opique.com and courtesy of The Bay

Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Comrags is one of the long-standing Canadian brands that are showing no signs of slowing down. They’ve been around for 28 years and they have a very established customer base and brand.  The Fall Winter 2007 – 2008 collection was my first Comrags fashion show. They show ever few seasons at LG Fashion Week.  I wondered what the Comrags print would be this season.  The endless possibilities they could come up with for for Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 excited me.

Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

The collection was typical Comrags: lots of easy to wear dresses, full skirts, couple of pant options and belted jackets. It’s a very retail friendly collection, stylish and uncomplicated. The models didn’t wear heels as per the usual Comrags MO. I loved the floral prints.

Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

The wide leg pant looked great with the Trotsky jacket. I want the complete runway look (with platforms of course).

Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 linesheet stated this jacket was made a material called silver wool.  The fabric has an unusual finish.  Other fabrics used in the collection include jacquard, wool, cotton twill and silk.  Comrags garments are always impeccably finished.  It’s a collection that goes in ny great office wear bucket.

Check out the video of the Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show at LG Fashion Week

Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

See photos from the Comrags Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show at LG Fashion Week

images: Photos taken for I want – I got by Paul Ross of Opique.com

Krane Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Krane Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Hands down favourite of LG Fashion Week is Krane.  This show had it all, from the amazing Krane clothing and accessories to the killer runway presentation with great music.  It’s was the most enjoyable show of the week for me.  I remember a Krane show I covered for blogTO way back in 2007 where designer, Ken Chow, cleverly used a bodybag in the finale of his fashion show. That guy has always been impressing me with his work and presentation skills. As someone who loves military details, it’s pretty hard not to be crazy in love with Krane.
Krane Fall Winter 2011 - 2012
Ken Chow continued on his exploration of the military theme with officer’s coats, aviator jackets, bombers and pea coats. He combined his signature waxed cotton with vintage military blankets in many of the jackets. Lambskin, wool, cotton and shearling rounded out the fabrics in the line. Bags came in different styles like duffle bags, carpenter bags, laptop bags, rucksacks and briefcases. They came in either suede or a washed leather. The lambskin jeans stood out the most in the amazing pant lineup. Other options included wool ponte di roma trousers and waxed cotton jeans. When the male models were wearing shirts they consisted of henleys and button ups. I’ve followed Ken for a while and the workmanship on Krane garments and accessories continues to be impeccable. Ken made a smart move including a female model in the lineup since women by 10% of menswear sold. I’ve always wanted to wear Krane and it works very well on female body.

See the entire Krane Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 show

Krane Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

See the photos from the Krane Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 show on lgfashionweek.ca.  Also check out filmmaker Ron Wan’s Krane Fall/Winter 2011 – 2012 video.

images: George Pimentel

Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 - 2012
Amanda Lew Kee’s fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection started out so strong. The first third of the collection was very promising. Unfortunately, the middle part of the collection was a little lost and the last third of the show was a risky gamble with colour that didn’t pay off.   There was a lot of good elements going on the in the collection but they got lost among the unfocused elements. In my perfect world Amanda would have continued to explore the silhouettes she opened with in fabrics that weren’t metallic.  The rule about taking off a piece of jewellery before you leave the house applies to everything in life.  In this case, less would have been more.
Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 - 2012
The collection was in desperate need of an edit.  The leggings and jersey tank dress are too American Apparel to be on the runway.  Those looks weren’t show material for me but the things you show to buyers in a showroom.  The flower embellishment left me puzzled.  Was it a deliberate design feature or some last-minute modesty coverage.  If so, a bandeau top or lacy bra would have been better choices.  The last half of the show just reminded me of Christmas with the fabric choices.  Thoughts of wrapping paper, tinsel and ornaments aren’t the best associations for clothing.  There is much potential in those shapes but the fabric and colours suck that potential dry.

I liked what I was seeing with sheer, zippers and leather.  Some of the coats were really great and I particular loved the two jackets that featured paillettes with leather and velvet (see looks at 2:12 and 4:22 in the video). I like the usage of zippers in Amanda’s work but they needs to be perfect. I noticed that zipper construction and finishing is a bit of a weakness. These are the things I see in the front row. The construction quality wasn’t consistent and I was seeing some buckling. When zippers are a main design feature they must be flawless. I loved the skirts but the thigh slit was way too high. It’s never a good thing when you are seeing model crotch all over the place.

Amanda Lew Kee’s fall collection missed an opportunity to showcase some great coats. It’s Canada and we love our outerwear.  Canada Goose alternatives for people out there are desperately needed out there. I loved the leather jackets from Amanda’s debut and it’s too bad this wasn’t explored again this fall.

See the Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show

See photos from Amanda Lew Kee’s fall winter 2011 collection on torontolife.com.

Images: Jenna Marie Wakani for torontolife.com

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Wesley Badanjak always berates me for missing his latest LOVAS collection at LG Fashion Week. I usually can’t attend because he shows at 5pm slot which conflicts with the 5 in mt 9 to 5. LOVAS fall winter 2011 – 2012 was scheduled at 6pm so I promised I would attend and finally see a show for the first time since FAT in 2009.

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

LOVAS fall winter 2011 – 2012 is inspired by the immigration story of his mother, Manda and her twin, Marija. He’s blended traditional Slavic prints and stylistic elements using wool, stretch cotton, cashmere, taffeta, silk organza, tweed, silk volie, raccoon, coyote, velvet, lace and bengaline. The colour palette was dark with navy, charcoal, silver, bordeaux and crimson.

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

LOVAS isn’t my style in general. Wesley knows that my nemesis is taffeta. The collection is wearable and accessible for many women. As an office dweller, there are suites and separates that incorporates elements of a fashion forward silhouette. Ultimately it was your standard fashion show. It didn’t have me salivating over every look. I do really love the pieces made from the silk voile fabric with the tiny rose print. I also congratulate Wesley for using fur very sparingly in his show. There was way to much this season. I was intrigued by the traditional Slavic prints but I would have liked to see them in different fabrics.

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

See the LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show.

See photos of the LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection

images: Photos taken for I want – I got by Paul Ross of Opique.com

Juma Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Juma Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Prints haven’t scared off the Juma siblings and I’m so happy about that. I ranted and raved about the Spring Summer 2011 collection. Alia and Jamil decided to do a print heavy spring collection which was something new for them. Normally, Juma is associated with neutral colours and a lot of black. It was a great pairing of silhouettes and prints. The Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection continues to hunt east for its inspiration.

Tibet, Thailand & Shezhen’s local tapestry work and wildlife shaped the vibrant colour and intricate designs the duo developed for the 2011 fall winter collection. To modernize the prints, they distorted and layered them as well as added gradients of colour including midnight blue, burnt corals, olive, tangerine, nude and black. The multicoloured knits were inspired by the thick, colourful wool blankets that mountain people wrap around themselves during the winter months in Tibet.(source: press release)

Juma Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

It’s safe to say I loved this collection from Juma as much as spring summer. I want it all. I didn’t get any photos or video for this show and I regret it now. However, I did find an edited one from my old blog stomping grounds blogTO.

This was the debut of smaller studio space at LG Fashion Week. Getting into the space is a bit of a pain in the ass but the shows that have been put on have been fun.

See the entire Juma’s fall/winter 2011 collection on torontolife.com. Also check out filmmaker Ron Wan’s JUMA Fall/Winter 2011 – 2012 video

Images: by Jenna Marie Wakani for torontolife.com

Fashion Week Style: Jason Morikawa

Jason Morikawa is a good friend of mine. He’s also a senior buyer at Holt Renfrew. I loved his super matchy matchy LG Fashion Week outfit.

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It’s all about the scarf and the shirt for me.  The scarf is from Paris, of course.  Jason says he was channeling Dries Van Noten with this patterned scarf and floral shirt combination.

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I encouraged the purchase of this Prada tote. It’s a great size and has a messenger strap too. It also matches his belt. I told you he was matchy matchy.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

The ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 started out with a video.  I’m not a fan of the video before the fashion show.  Rarely do they contribute something meaningful to the collection.  I’ve seen a couple of good ones by Evan Biddell and I enjoyed Holt Renfrew’s for the Spring Summer 2011 season.  What a difference a celebrity can make.  The video didn’t sit well with me as it basically was like “hey look at how much work Jay Manuel has put into this line.  He did it all by himself.”   In previous seasons, ATTITUDE would acknowledge the creative team who developed the line.  I really liked that Sears acknowledged it was a team effort. Now, Sears wants us to believe Jay Manual is the sole creative force behind ATTITUDE. He even came out alone at the end of the show.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

In general, ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection was what I expected.  Retail friendly trends: the 70s, military, leather and fur (both faux).  Jay was also drinking the Proenza Schouler PS1 koolaid because I saw more than a few inspired versions on the runway.  I thought the faux leathers looked alright.  I’m still not a pleather fan.  The faux fur was a problem.  The last look was a Marine blue faux fur& faux leather zip front jacket and it was heinous.   No other words can describe it.  Faux or real fur, nothing can save this jacket.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Most of the other military influenced jackets were pretty good and came in some bold colours. There were some interesting styling elements. I especially like the bag around the waist of the model in look 4.  I didn’t enjoy the styling for the knitwear.  Cardigans don’t need to be belted to someone already wearing a heavy sweater.  The music was a little to Fly on a Saturday night for me too.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Yasmin Warsame opened the show and it’s always lovely to see her strutting down the runway.  Some Top Model veterans got to strut their stuff: Rebecca Hardy, Dani Evans, Linsay Willier, Aminate Ayinde, Meaghan Waller and McKey Sullivan.   The rumour mill had dreams of Tyra Banks and Gwen Stefani showing up.  Tyra, while remote, was possible.  However, I think someone just saw the giant Gwen Stefani poster in the Hertiage Court and made it up.

See the entire ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection

Photos taken for I want – I got by Paul Ross of Opique.com

IZMA Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

IZMA FW2011

Izzy Camilleri and Adrian Mainella are back again for IZMA‘s 70s glam rock influenced Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection. I got more of an old Hollywood feel from the styling, hair and makeup during the show. However, the colours and jumpsuits are all 70s though. Sustainable furs used this fall winter 2011 – 2012 season included coyote, lapin (rabbit) and fox.

IZMA FW2011

Is it bad that I liked the non fur portion of the IZMA show more than the fur? I’m beginning to realize that I’m a traditionalist when it comes to fur. Grandma fur resonates with me than more than this modern stuff.  I guess the Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 IZMA collection had just enough grandma to win me over.  The Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 coats with the gold and silver detailing were marvels of construction but I they didn’t work for me aesthetically. The smaller the fur piece the more I liked it. The capelets, boleros and stoles I really liked with my favourite being the fox and organza bolero in sapphire blue. I have no moral problem with fur, just an aesthetic one.  There were some pieces I felt were just too much, such as the fur tuxedo blazer, gown and skirts.

GP2_8761IZMA FW2011

So, the fur didn’t float my boat this year. Let’s talk about the amazing ready to wear capsule collection that accompanied the traditional IZMA fur pieces. I was dying over paillettes, velvet, organza, silk and organdy.  Look 2 which consisted of a lapin swing coat and silk velvet jumpsuit in marrone it hands down my favourite.  When Tara Gill removed that coat to reveal the gold liner I just about died.  A great fashion moment that everyone wants to emulate walking into a room.  I love Izzy and Adrian for having so many amazing jumpsuits in silk velvet burnout and herringbone silk paillette.

IZMA FW2011

See video of the IZMA Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection.

See all photos from the IZMA Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection.

Also check out filmmaker Ron Wan’s IZMA Fall/Winter 2011 – 2012 video

images: courtesy of IZMA and Brill Communications.