London trained designer Louise Goldin is a permanent fixture on the New York Fashion Week scene after moving in 2011. This season, her second in New York was Kayne free (yay) and left Louise to bask in her own glory. Louise is a knitwear god and the winter season is all about the knitwear for me. It’s easily my favourite part of winter.
The Louise Goldin collection mixed knits with leather and featured some strong prints. Here collection was inspired by fighting warriors. Trapunto quilting is used in the must have cropped sweaters and jackets giving it an amour feel. Victorian collars were blending with the knits in unique ways.
â€˜I wanted them to be handsome women,’ Goldin said backstage. â€˜I love this sort of masculine but charming woman, that was both elegant yet cool.’ (source)
I learned from Cathy Horn that Louise produces her collection in China which doesn’t surprise me considering her knitwear heavy collection. Not everyone is Chanel with deep enough pockets to buy their local suppliers.
Mark Fast returned to Canada and presented a tightly edited version of his London Fashion Week fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection. This was the first time he has presented a fashion show in Canada. The fall winter collection was the debut of his collaboration with Canadian leather retailer Danier. This was one of three shows presented at the Trump Tower Toronto which is still under construction.
“Things are not what they seem to be, they are mysterious and disguised. I used the energy of the movement of a wolf’s vicious anger to be projected into the cuts of knitted pieces and leather garments. I am using merino wool and elastomeric mixes in the knitted dresses. I wanted to create a softer, warmer silhouette. I also used leathers to evoke the strictness and attitude of this women”. – Mark Fast (from press release)
It was a total delight to see the knitwear wizard’s collection up close. The knits are so intricate and I loved the play on textures. Wool, alpacha, merino, mohair joined with nylon, polymaide and elastane to create a number of knits of different thickness and designs. Mark worked with the Woolmark Company to produced the these amazing innovations in natural luxury fibers. It was all very sexy with the strategic cutouts and sheer panels.Â My favourite pieces are the Big Bad Wolf Coat, the Wolf’s Tooth dress in orange and the amazing Dietrich coat.
I loved the leather pieces. I’m hoping the leather high-waist trousers and cropped parka made it to production. The Danier x Mark Fast collaboration will use pieces from Mark’s fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection as inspiration for the line. Obviously, Danier has to think about how to translate these fashion forward designs into something more palatable by the masses.Â I’m hoping Danier has some e-commerce options worked out for fall because I can see a demand from international customers.
While I enjoyed the Mark Fast fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection it seemed the leather collaboration didn’t integrate with Mark’s design aesthetic as much as I would have liked. I was hoping to see some amazing leather and knit combinations. The lack of those pieces made it seem as if they were two separate collections, leather and knits. The London show was much longer and had more leather. It easier to see the difference. I think this is because I’ve put Mark into this knitwear pigeonhole and I’m having a rough time getting past it. That being said, I’m still excited as all hell to buy some Mark Fast x Danier leather in the fall.
Instead of photos I took video of the Mark Fast Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show.
I really enjoyed the Line Spring Summer 2011 collection at LGFW in October of last year. John and Jennifer decided that it was time to take Line forward and produce a whole collection of separates and dresses instead of just knits. The verdict is in, and they do a good bottom.
These are my top Line picks from the Spring Summer 2011 lookbook.
I was just sent the new behind the scenes video from Roots for their Fall 2010 collection. It was filmed in beautiful Trinity Bight, Newfoundland.
You can check out the full lookbook on Roots.ca. I’m pretty partial to the outfit below. The sweater is catching my eye. I’ve been a big fan of the Russian Vamp Boots and I really like that they have made them higher. It’s perfect for folding over and I like the look.
Mark Fast was in town last week for a Spring 2010 preview. I wasn’t able to attend the preview during the day but I went to Ame for a cocktails in his honour. Mark is from Manitoba originally. He studied at Seneca College in Ontario briefly before going to London. He attended the prestigious Central Saint Martins and got his BA and MA.
Mark designs by hand on a domestic knitting machine. His work is formed onto the body as he knits, and he has devised innovative stitching techniques, blending lycra with viscose, angora or wool. He is inspired by the endless possibilities of lycra yarns, sculpting areas of tension and areas of volume over the body. Mark’s fascination with the cinema drives his creative process as he channels the energy of the characters who inspire him into his knits. Obsessed with texture, Mark’s most recent work explores the relationship of garments to the wearers body.
I didn’t realize the work that goes into a Mark Fast dress until I saw the models milling about in them. Wow, the details are insane making the dresses very delicate. You have to be careful putting them on for sure. When I talked to Mark briefly, he mentioned the delicate nature of the dresses make him very selective in who he lends things too. He’s a very sweet and soft-spoken man.
This season he partnered with Christian Louboutin to design his Spring 2010 footwear
Seeing Mark’s clothing in person totally blew my mind. I have a lot more respect for what he does after touching the garments and learning about his technique. I touched everyone in Mark Fast that night. His clothing has texture and dimension to it.
This is the ‘all-in-one’ defense against winter: The coverage of a hat with the wrap-around protection of a scarf. This blend of cashmere and extra fine merino wool makes this piece exceptionally soft. We are Canadian – we know how to keep warm and look great at the same time.
Where Did You Get That began with a childhood friendship. As teenagers growing up in Toronto, Canada we shared our clothes, our secrets and an insatiable taste for fashion. But our styles were always very much our own. It’s amazing how two people can wear virtually the exact same thing and yet pull off two completely different looks â€“ it is the very essence of personal flair and a perfect reflection of our partnership.
Our differing styles and personalities, experiences and expertise, are echoed in our diverse and evolving collection. Yet our shared standard of quality, uniqueness, beauty and function remain at the heart of every Where Did You Get That find. And it’s the find that motivates us to continue hunting and gathering the best of the best, from California to Calcutta, and now to you.
Where Did You Get That is not only a question we’ve heard time and again over the course of our careers, but it is also one we’ve been asking each other for 30 years. So while our new venture is a natural culmination of our common passions, pastimes and professional interests, it is the demand for something different that inspired us to create this picturesque portal for all our most fabulous finds.
I’ve been turned onto Sacai recently. Abe Chitose worked at Comme des GarÃ§ons and Junya Watanabe for 10 years before starting Sacai in 1999. Her knitwear is amazing. Holt Renfrew carries the line and you should really go into the Bloor street store to and check the stuff out, especially if you haven’t had the pleasure of looking at Japanese design up close. I’m in love with the above cardigan, it’s all about the collar and shoulder. The one that Holt’s carries had burgundy in the ruffles.
This season was all about the ruffle and it was incorporated throughout the collection.