I want – I got

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2010 - 2011 Shoes

I love it when the Footwear News asks the buyers their opinions of the collections. I’m always interested in what the buyers/retailers think of the collections. For the last few seasons I’ve been posting about shoe buyer’s feelings on the show. Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 is no exception.
New York

Todd Hanshaw, Fashion Director, Wynn Resorts, Las Vegas
Strongest Trends:
• Ankle booties
• Fur
• Ladylike, refined styles

“Must-Carry” Styles :
• High-heel ankle booties
• Flat-sole sandals

Shifts in Buying Strategy:
“We are absolutely growing our budget and getting behind the point of view that we represent in the stores.”

Liz Rodbell, EVP & GMM of apparel, accessories, shoes & cosmetics, Lord & Taylor
Strongest Trends:
• Military- and utility-inspired boots
• Laceups and ankle booties on a wedge or platform
• Oxfords and suede platforms

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Lace-up boots
• Booties
• Clogs

Ones to Watch:
“Key designers to watch are Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Max Azria.”

Shifts in Buying Strategy:
“Our buying strategy remains consistent. The market looks very strong for fall, and the trends are well represented.”

Tracy Margolies, VP & DMM of shoes, Saks Fifth Avenue
Strongest Trends:
• Boots in so many options: mid-shaft, tall-shaft, over-the-knee, thigh-high
• Detailing, with exposed zippers and laces
• Leopard print

Ones to Watch:
Camilla Skovgaard and Alexandre Birman

Davinia Wang, Owner, Edon Manor, New York
Strongest Trends:
• Basics
• Chunky, wooden stacked heels
• Heavy detailing and fabrics, moving away from plain and patent blacks
• Deep beige, cognac, burnt oranges and yellows for the winter

“Must-Carry” Styles from New York:
• Alexander Wang’s amber/brown, chunky, stretch ankle boot
• Joseph Altuzarra’s black, lace-up, over-the-knee boot
• Proenza Schouler’s moccasin-inspired wooden platform

Ones to Watch:
Joseph Altuzarra, Céline and Ohne Titel

Shifts in Buying Strategy:
“With the shift in the economy and people’s expectations, it’s important to add variety in my designer mix. As a boutique, I have to offer more without sacrificing my high-end vision. I have also been harder on my best-selling designers, like Givenchy, in terms of quality for the price. Many high-end designers are making [lower-quality] shoes and for [the same] high prices. So customers will tend to go for the contemporary designers for a cheaper price point but to still get a dramatic, runway-style shoe.” (source)

Milan

Linda Fargo, SVP of fashion office and store presentation, Neiman Marcus Group
Strongest Trends:
• Head-to-toe fur, including fur trimmed boots lined with shearling, or full-on fur boots
• Wedge boots and booties
• Distressed leather motorcycle boots, a bit tarnished and worn in
• Delicate and lady-like shoes
• Over-the-knee boots, which are coming in every fabrication: leather, suede and shearling, from right above the knee to thigh high
• Boy-meets-girl styles, including oxfords, loafers, man-tailored, good-year welted construction boots and lug soles
• Colored patent, particularly on the lady shoes from Prada and Miu Miu

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• The lady shoe at Prada
• Over-the-knee boots at Gucci
• Fendi’s duck boot

Ones to Watch:
• Prada
• Fendi

Barbara Atkin, VP,Fashion Director, Holt Renfrew
Strongest Trends:
• Masculine: loafer styles, lace-up oxfords and brogues
• The feminine shoe, from pumps to T-straps and ankle straps
• The sporty lace-up with varied heel heights in a variety of fabrications, from leather and suede to velvet, with capped or open toes
• Boot leggings in a second skin, or a printed leather, a neutral or richly colored suede
• Open-toes with a wedge or high heel

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Jil Sander motorcycle boot
• Marni clog/wedge
• Prada T-strap pump (source)

Paris

Todd Hanshaw, DMM, Wynn Las Vegas
Strongest Trends:
• Texture, whether from layering suedes, multimedia or fur
• An amazing amount of work on the heels, creating new and different lines to the heel (for example, the candle wax heel from Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte)
• Feathers

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Over the knee boots, from the extreme at Azzedine Alaïa to the more conventional at Brian Atwood
• Daniele Michetti’s [mirrored] spectator pump with napa trim and croc toe
• Nicholas Kirkwood’s leather and lace platform bootie

Ones to Watch:
• Chrissie Morris
• H Williams
• Charlotte Olympia

Buying Strategy: “Our buying strategy remains the same as far as searching for new talent and special items. However, we absolutely are growing and investing more with the vendors we have a strong history with. It really is a great shoe season. There is a lot of creativity out there and, especially in Paris, a very good energy and strong collections from many.”

Tracy Margolies, VP & DMM of women’s footwear, Saks Fifth Avenue
Strongest Trends:
• Lace-up boots
• Fur/shearling boots and booties
• Clog bottoms
• The return of the classic pump, especially with a pointy toe
• New exotics, such as frog, lizard and stingray, especially in colors

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Fur boot
• Classic pump
• Blue, green or purple

Ones to Watch:
• Alexandre Birman
• Chrissie Morris
• Daniele Michetti
• Diego Dolcini

Jeffrey Kalinsky, President, Jeffrey New York and Atlanta
Strongest Trends:
• The lack of the shoe. Footwear is really a bootie or a boot.
• Heights are either high or flat, with not many choices in between

“Must-Carry” Styles:
• Givenchy patent leather lace-up bootie
• Thigh-high Louboutins
• All the footwear choices at Lanvin

Buying Strategy: “Footwear prices seemed expensive to me again for fall. It’s becoming more and more challenging for brands to find ways to keep their quality and their craftsmanship while maintaining retail [prices] that make sense to the consumer. There is some real opportunity out there for the brands that can figure that out.”(source)