Tô Long-nam Spring 2010

Tô Long-nam Spring 2010

Tô Long-nam is no stranger to I want – I got. I posted about the TÔ Long-Nam Fall 2009 – 2010 Lookbook after I received a great email from him. I also wanted one of his Fall 2009 Jackets. I received another email from Long-nam keeping me in the loop with Spring 2010. I learned about White told me about his involvement with the WHITE and VOGUE introduce project which aims to help emerging designer from across the world. Check out the video, Long-nam’s part starts at 3:13.

Tô Long-nam Spring 2010

The collection for spring/summer 2010 is visually a development of the fall/winter 2009 collection. It picks up all the ideas of the previous work such as the pleating in the back, the inset details and the paneled structures of the garments, but translates all this with a much softer approach. In general, the shape for SS 2010 will continue with the slim straight silhouette of the past, but there is a new element which breaks the shape and gives it a new fresh breath. The loose volume cut on the torso contradicts with the slim fitted bottom part and creates a very feminine and sexy look whilst remaining as modern as ever. Like the skin texture, all garments come up in smooth fabrics and will be interrupted only by cut and scar details, as seen in the jacket and skirt designs. (tolongnam.com)

Tô Long-nam Spring 2010

The jackets are cut longer and come in two volumes, a slim sexy tailored fit as seen in the TUXEDO-jacket with the pleated shoulder pads in the new STRETCH CINTZ fabric. However, in my opinion the highlight for the season will be the shape of the SAHARIENNE-jackets. Although the cut is loose and somewhat oversized, once it is worn in combination with one of the slim CIGARETTE-pants or the MICRO-skirt with an asymmetric slit, it creates an incredibly feminine and modern look. These jackets will be proposed in one of the most modern fabrics of the season, a WOOL CRÊPE VOILE and in a SILK ACETATE SATIN and offers therefore a shirt feeling to the clients as the ultimate highlight in this collection. In contrary to the previous collection, the new TÔ LONG-NAM collection for spring/summer 2010 is more discrete and shows its true values in the details, e.g. round finishings in the shoulder parts, asymmetric pattern cuttings, variations of english seams to offer light garments without linings. (tolongnam.com)

Tô Long-nam Spring 2010

With this understanding, the collection will be all about SUPER-SOFT-TAILORING. The fabrics are balanced between fluent woven and light tailored. I have used a SUPER LIGHT COTTON GABARDINE, a SILK CRÊPE DE CHINE, a SILK-ACETATE SATIN, a WOOL STRETCH CINTZ and a WOOL CRÊPE VOILE. It is the first time I have used stretch fabrics to create a SECOND-SKIN-TAILORED-FIT. The colours in the collection are taken from the skin colour range, and vary between pale colours such as GRAPHITE, CHALK, VANILLA and ANTIQUE PINK, these of which go along in contrast with COAL (tolongnam.com).

Tô Long-nam is available in Canada at Holt Renfrew, Bloor Street in the World Design Lab.

By Anita Clarke

Anita Clarke is an Engineering Storyteller and the founder of the fashion blog “I want – I got.” She was one of the first and most prominent online fashion writers in Toronto and Canada.