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Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 - 2012
Amanda Lew Kee’s fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection started out so strong. The first third of the collection was very promising. Unfortunately, the middle part of the collection was a little lost and the last third of the show was a risky gamble with colour that didn’t pay off.   There was a lot of good elements going on the in the collection but they got lost among the unfocused elements. In my perfect world Amanda would have continued to explore the silhouettes she opened with in fabrics that weren’t metallic.  The rule about taking off a piece of jewellery before you leave the house applies to everything in life.  In this case, less would have been more.
Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 - 2012
The collection was in desperate need of an edit.  The leggings and jersey tank dress are too American Apparel to be on the runway.  Those looks weren’t show material for me but the things you show to buyers in a showroom.  The flower embellishment left me puzzled.  Was it a deliberate design feature or some last-minute modesty coverage.  If so, a bandeau top or lacy bra would have been better choices.  The last half of the show just reminded me of Christmas with the fabric choices.  Thoughts of wrapping paper, tinsel and ornaments aren’t the best associations for clothing.  There is much potential in those shapes but the fabric and colours suck that potential dry.

I liked what I was seeing with sheer, zippers and leather.  Some of the coats were really great and I particular loved the two jackets that featured paillettes with leather and velvet (see looks at 2:12 and 4:22 in the video). I like the usage of zippers in Amanda’s work but they needs to be perfect. I noticed that zipper construction and finishing is a bit of a weakness. These are the things I see in the front row. The construction quality wasn’t consistent and I was seeing some buckling. When zippers are a main design feature they must be flawless. I loved the skirts but the thigh slit was way too high. It’s never a good thing when you are seeing model crotch all over the place.

Amanda Lew Kee’s fall collection missed an opportunity to showcase some great coats. It’s Canada and we love our outerwear.  Canada Goose alternatives for people out there are desperately needed out there. I loved the leather jackets from Amanda’s debut and it’s too bad this wasn’t explored again this fall.

See the Amanda Lew Kee Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show

See photos from Amanda Lew Kee’s fall winter 2011 collection on torontolife.com.

Images: Jenna Marie Wakani for torontolife.com

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Wesley Badanjak always berates me for missing his latest LOVAS collection at LG Fashion Week. I usually can’t attend because he shows at 5pm slot which conflicts with the 5 in mt 9 to 5. LOVAS fall winter 2011 – 2012 was scheduled at 6pm so I promised I would attend and finally see a show for the first time since FAT in 2009.

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

LOVAS fall winter 2011 – 2012 is inspired by the immigration story of his mother, Manda and her twin, Marija. He’s blended traditional Slavic prints and stylistic elements using wool, stretch cotton, cashmere, taffeta, silk organza, tweed, silk volie, raccoon, coyote, velvet, lace and bengaline. The colour palette was dark with navy, charcoal, silver, bordeaux and crimson.

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

LOVAS isn’t my style in general. Wesley knows that my nemesis is taffeta. The collection is wearable and accessible for many women. As an office dweller, there are suites and separates that incorporates elements of a fashion forward silhouette. Ultimately it was your standard fashion show. It didn’t have me salivating over every look. I do really love the pieces made from the silk voile fabric with the tiny rose print. I also congratulate Wesley for using fur very sparingly in his show. There was way to much this season. I was intrigued by the traditional Slavic prints but I would have liked to see them in different fabrics.

LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

See the LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show.

See photos of the LOVAS Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection

images: Photos taken for I want – I got by Paul Ross of Opique.com

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Juma Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Juma Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Prints haven’t scared off the Juma siblings and I’m so happy about that. I ranted and raved about the Spring Summer 2011 collection. Alia and Jamil decided to do a print heavy spring collection which was something new for them. Normally, Juma is associated with neutral colours and a lot of black. It was a great pairing of silhouettes and prints. The Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection continues to hunt east for its inspiration.

Tibet, Thailand & Shezhen’s local tapestry work and wildlife shaped the vibrant colour and intricate designs the duo developed for the 2011 fall winter collection. To modernize the prints, they distorted and layered them as well as added gradients of colour including midnight blue, burnt corals, olive, tangerine, nude and black. The multicoloured knits were inspired by the thick, colourful wool blankets that mountain people wrap around themselves during the winter months in Tibet.(source: press release)

Juma Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

It’s safe to say I loved this collection from Juma as much as spring summer. I want it all. I didn’t get any photos or video for this show and I regret it now. However, I did find an edited one from my old blog stomping grounds blogTO.

This was the debut of smaller studio space at LG Fashion Week. Getting into the space is a bit of a pain in the ass but the shows that have been put on have been fun.

See the entire Juma’s fall/winter 2011 collection on torontolife.com. Also check out filmmaker Ron Wan’s JUMA Fall/Winter 2011 – 2012 video

Images: by Jenna Marie Wakani for torontolife.com

Fashion Week Style: Jason Morikawa

Jason Morikawa is a good friend of mine. He’s also a senior buyer at Holt Renfrew. I loved his super matchy matchy LG Fashion Week outfit.

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It’s all about the scarf and the shirt for me.  The scarf is from Paris, of course.  Jason says he was channeling Dries Van Noten with this patterned scarf and floral shirt combination.

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I encouraged the purchase of this Prada tote. It’s a great size and has a messenger strap too. It also matches his belt. I told you he was matchy matchy.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

The ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 started out with a video.  I’m not a fan of the video before the fashion show.  Rarely do they contribute something meaningful to the collection.  I’ve seen a couple of good ones by Evan Biddell and I enjoyed Holt Renfrew’s for the Spring Summer 2011 season.  What a difference a celebrity can make.  The video didn’t sit well with me as it basically was like “hey look at how much work Jay Manuel has put into this line.  He did it all by himself.”   In previous seasons, ATTITUDE would acknowledge the creative team who developed the line.  I really liked that Sears acknowledged it was a team effort. Now, Sears wants us to believe Jay Manual is the sole creative force behind ATTITUDE. He even came out alone at the end of the show.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

In general, ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection was what I expected.  Retail friendly trends: the 70s, military, leather and fur (both faux).  Jay was also drinking the Proenza Schouler PS1 koolaid because I saw more than a few inspired versions on the runway.  I thought the faux leathers looked alright.  I’m still not a pleather fan.  The faux fur was a problem.  The last look was a Marine blue faux fur& faux leather zip front jacket and it was heinous.   No other words can describe it.  Faux or real fur, nothing can save this jacket.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Most of the other military influenced jackets were pretty good and came in some bold colours. There were some interesting styling elements. I especially like the bag around the waist of the model in look 4.  I didn’t enjoy the styling for the knitwear.  Cardigans don’t need to be belted to someone already wearing a heavy sweater.  The music was a little to Fly on a Saturday night for me too.

ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Yasmin Warsame opened the show and it’s always lovely to see her strutting down the runway.  Some Top Model veterans got to strut their stuff: Rebecca Hardy, Dani Evans, Linsay Willier, Aminate Ayinde, Meaghan Waller and McKey Sullivan.   The rumour mill had dreams of Tyra Banks and Gwen Stefani showing up.  Tyra, while remote, was possible.  However, I think someone just saw the giant Gwen Stefani poster in the Hertiage Court and made it up.

See the entire ATTITUDE Jay Manuel Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection

Photos taken for I want – I got by Paul Ross of Opique.com

IZMA Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

IZMA FW2011

Izzy Camilleri and Adrian Mainella are back again for IZMA‘s 70s glam rock influenced Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection. I got more of an old Hollywood feel from the styling, hair and makeup during the show. However, the colours and jumpsuits are all 70s though. Sustainable furs used this fall winter 2011 – 2012 season included coyote, lapin (rabbit) and fox.

IZMA FW2011

Is it bad that I liked the non fur portion of the IZMA show more than the fur? I’m beginning to realize that I’m a traditionalist when it comes to fur. Grandma fur resonates with me than more than this modern stuff.  I guess the Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 IZMA collection had just enough grandma to win me over.  The Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 coats with the gold and silver detailing were marvels of construction but I they didn’t work for me aesthetically. The smaller the fur piece the more I liked it. The capelets, boleros and stoles I really liked with my favourite being the fox and organza bolero in sapphire blue. I have no moral problem with fur, just an aesthetic one.  There were some pieces I felt were just too much, such as the fur tuxedo blazer, gown and skirts.

GP2_8761IZMA FW2011

So, the fur didn’t float my boat this year. Let’s talk about the amazing ready to wear capsule collection that accompanied the traditional IZMA fur pieces. I was dying over paillettes, velvet, organza, silk and organdy.  Look 2 which consisted of a lapin swing coat and silk velvet jumpsuit in marrone it hands down my favourite.  When Tara Gill removed that coat to reveal the gold liner I just about died.  A great fashion moment that everyone wants to emulate walking into a room.  I love Izzy and Adrian for having so many amazing jumpsuits in silk velvet burnout and herringbone silk paillette.

IZMA FW2011

See video of the IZMA Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection.

See all photos from the IZMA Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection.

Also check out filmmaker Ron Wan’s IZMA Fall/Winter 2011 – 2012 video

images: courtesy of IZMA and Brill Communications.

Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

I have been kinda lukewarm to Rita Liefhebber‘s last two collections. Nothing has touched the enjoyment I received from the Spring Summer 2009 collection. It had it all, a super cool presentation space in the back of The Black Hoof and lots of great food. Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 presentation at Jonathan+Olivia almost brought me back to that Spring Summer 2009 high.

Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

It was all about the tops and jackets for me anything else barely registered. I just loved the hand crafted splatter and tie-dye which add an artistic touch to minimalist clothing. The usual winter fabrics like wool, cashmere and mohair were used. Rita also jumped on the velvet trend that everyone in Toronto is doing.  The tie-dye velvet shirts are just beautiful. Rita’s inspiration was: “globular clusters, Gamma-ray bubbles, spheroid halo, local fluff”. The jackets were also standout pieces for me.  The collection has a very “model off duty” look to it. You can pair pieces with jeans and boots or dress it up with a jacket and heels.

Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

I brought Ryan Oakley (The Grumpy Owl) with me to the show and he remarked on twitter, “It’s like a Japanese horror movie. Dead eyes. Dead sad eyes.

Ryan Oakley

See all my photos from the Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2011 2012 presentation

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 – 2012

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

I had a little peek of a few items from the collection at various times prior to the show. First visit was jersey dresses and the second visit was the long melton wool kimono inspired jackets. There was talk of velvet in the studio as I swung the jacket over my shoulders. Greta in velvet, I thought, that could be interesting. Little did I know that velvet would be everywhere this Toronto Fashion Week. Kirk and I talked about the inspiration which included the Orient and a link between past and future.

 

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

 

 

The show was back at Audi. I like the venue but it’s shitty to take pictures in. Of course, torontolife.com captured the entire Greta Constantine Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection. They have a great photographer that got way better shots than me.

The collection surprised me in a good way. It wasn’t just jersey dresses; Kirk and Stephen were dressing for a Canadian winter. Greta Constantine’s Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection is romantic and sultry. The colours were rich: charcoal, crimson, mushroom, cobalt and eggplant with slate and black being the complementary neutrals. I loved all the cocoon shaped jackets, especially the one in velvet. Other fabrics used this season included double knit, jersey, neoprene, leather, and fur. I loved the layered on styling, it looked so warm and cosy.

There are some pieces that don’t really work with the 2D nature of photos. The voluminous capes and skirt don’t look great in photos but the effect was like a quilt without all the stitching. It was like being wrapped up in a big cozy blanket which might not appeal to some but I thought was excellent.  I like warm in the winter and need alternative to down jackets. The melton wool Kimono coats looked so great on the runway. It’s dressing as a kick ass superhero or action star. Too bad it’s not practical to have a train on your jacket but they can be shortened for retail. The capes are cute on the runway but I still can’t see myself wearing one yet. I have a vintage one in my closet that I’ve never worn. I loved the pants. The collection also featured their signature jersey dresses which has some interesting cutout features on the side and backs.

Aldo created an exclusive line of Greta Constantine shoes in four styles using fabric that Kirk and Stephen had acquired but couldn’t use for the show. The shoes are pretty amazing and all the models got to keep a pair. I got some close up shots.

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 had me at the billowing parka. I’m a sucker for that silhouette. Put anything on a piece that looks like a cape and I’ll be all over it.  It plays on all my superhero desires. I enjoyed the drape applied to Ezra this season. I also enjoyed my shirtless men but was wonder where our dear Paolo was. Ezra wasn’t into colour with slate, charcoal, mushroom and white being the palette. Fabrics were the same as Greta Constantine except the lack of velvet and fur.

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

Greta and Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 - 2012

I got the finale walk on video.  It’s pretty dark but meh.  It was dark.  Great job on the show music Diego!