All posts tagged: Fall 2010

Mikhale Kale - Fall Winter 2010 2011

TFW – Mikhael Kale – Fall Winter 2010 2011

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I didn’t even know about the Mikhael Kale presentation at the Spoke Club until the day before. Thankfully a resourceful and close fashion friend alerted me to this and expertly took care of everything. Soon we were rushing out of Evan Biddel and hopping into a cab desperately hoping to make the start of the show. I only see Mikhael’s collections at the Holt Renfrew’s LG Fashion week cocktail parties. This year it became a breakfast and I was at the office in a meeting room with my lovely coworkers discussing trade processing and business scenarios. The joys of a double life. I was really disappointed that I missed the breakfast so I didn’t want to miss the Spoke Club gig either. We made it to the show in the nick of time. The runway room was tightly packed and had a raised runway. I knew my newbie camera skills would fail me again. I tried my best with the photos but being backlight and super close didn’t help me. TCHAD has some photos of …

LGFW - Evan Biddell Fall Winter 2010 - 2011

LGFW – Evan Biddell Fall Winter 2010 – 2011

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You can always expect a specific point of view from Evan Biddell. The Fall Winter 2010 collection continued with Evan’s obsession with the cocoon shape and a new fabric, cork. It was the most interesting items in the collection. He transformed cork into shorts, skirts and jackets. One jacket in particular made the wearer look like a Geiger Alien. The cork was stiff but not the point where it looked unwearable. It was more appealing to me than the PVC cocoon shapes that preceded the wave of cork pieces. Understanding that head on images would not display any volume, Evan had the models stand at the end of the runway and face sideways to the photographer’s pit.  Fall Winter 2010 wasn’t as cohesive as what I saw with Spring 2010 at OZ Studios. The 80s prints, pvc, fringe, ruffles, animal print and cork left me wondering what direction Evan was going. It was a battle between sleek bodycon and volume away from the body. The short video that preceded the runway show was random and …

Rita Liefhebber - Fall Winter 2010

Rita Liefhebber – Fall Winter 2010

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Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2010 collection was in a truck parked outside The Black Hoof on Dundas Street West. A group of the city’s cool kids and fashion industry types gathered as I walked up.  Like Rita’s Spring 2010 presentation, The Hoof was catering. Every once in a while someone with a tray of Hoof specialties would come out and feed the fashion folk. Too bad there was no drinking allowed on the corner. I enjoy the change of pace with fashion presentations. Rita’s idea of presenting in a truck felt much like an art installation. Many people commented about how it felt like Nuit Blanche with the group of people milling around outside the truck. The models stood between judys that look made of cellophane tape. The judys showed the collection during NYC Fall Winter 2010 market in February. The presentation was well done but it made for crappy photos for a newbie Olympus E-PL1 user. I don’t have a strong idea of the Rita Liefhebber brand. The fall collection looks like it’s moving …

Lundström & Lundström Collection Fall Winter 2010

LGFW РLundstr̦m & Lundstr̦m Collection Fall Winter 2010

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This season LUNDSTRÖM would be without it’s namesake designer. Linda Lundström left Eleventh Floor Apparel to launch her Lean Manufacturing consulting career. That would explain the distinction between Lundström and Lundström Collection. The former designed by Linda and the latter by the team. Lundström came out first with the La Parka and a few other jackets. Then Lundström Collection paraded out looks I could see on women by my office in the financial district. I heard a lot of negatives things about the show from others. It’s not my style but I think it was a success for the demographic Eleventh Floor Apparel is targeting. Juliana Schiavinatto’s (she did Line Knitwear too) styling was very good. I usually hate velvet but it was well done.  The colour, tabac is a good choice for the conservative demographic. I liked the ombre mohair jackets in black and white.  Those were the only two pieces that got any reaction me.  The fabrics sound delightful: silk, mohair, velvet, alpaca, angora and cashmere.  There is some dreaded taffeta in there …

Line Knitwear Fall Winter 2010

TEFW – Line Knitwear Fall Winter 2010

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I’ve been excited for the Line Knitwear Fall Winter 2010 fashion show since I learned about it from John Muscat and Jennifer Wells. I went to the Fall Winter 2010 Lookbook photoshoot a few months back. I spend the day hanging out with the crew and getting a great preview of all the Fall merchandise. I was all over it, a full range of textures and weights in knits and the leathers jackets. The collection has all my favourite shapes and details: long, oversized, sheer, chunky and dramatic movement. All the pieces were stylish and functional. I wanted all the looks. I wanted to see which pieces they would pull and use to present as a collection. They would be presenting a single message for Line Knitwear.  They shot over 100 looks that day, it’s a lot of clothing to edit.  I was also interested to see what underpinnings they would come up with to complement. The Line Fall Winter 2010 fashion show was at The Oasi at 99 Sudbury St.  A large warehouse space …

The Tale of Two Barbies

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So, I was asked to style a Barbie doll for LG Fashion Week. I thought it would be fun so I accepted the challenge. It turned out that Barbie was an albatross. I had a bunch of ideas for Barbie swirling in my head: Give her a haircut, make her a mini me, fur, etc. It was really hard to boil it down. With the deadline soon approaching I came up with something and I thought it was pretty fucking clever. Dare to Wear Love Barbie. Here is my quote for her “I guess this is the Dare to Wear Love Barbie. I really loved the small samples of fabric that were left on front row seats at the Dare to Wear Love show last season. I collected them all. Barbie’s proportions allowed me to create the wrap dress I could never wear given the amount of material.” I made the dress (check that architectural shoulder), the necklace and bracelets. I also dyed the shoes and handbag to match.   She also got a little …

LGFW – IZMA Fall Winter 2010

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You want to know how to get in my good books for a fashion show? Use I wanna be Adored by The Stone Roses in your runway music. It’s one of my favourite tracks ever. It was stellar when this track kicked in during IZMA’s Fall Winter 2010 collection. I was singing along and tapping my foot in the front row. You also put David in the show. Dreamy. I never expected to say fur and beautiful in the same sentence. I’m usually pretty ambivalent about fur. I find most of it awful on purely aesthetic terms. Izzy Camilleri and Adrian Mainella presented a beautiful fur collection. The construction of the garments was spectacular. All fur in the collection is sourced from NAFA Origin assured, sustainable wild Canadian furs. It’s a selection of coyote, raccoon, muskrat, red fox, grey fox, beaver and silver fox. The underpinnings were sheer and leather. The trousers leather were to die for. They did a great job of complementing the fur pieces without becoming the focal point. It was all …

Smythe Fall Winter 2010 - 2011 Lookbook

Smythe Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 Lookbook

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I was very excited to received the Smythe Fall Winter 2010 -2011 Lookbook. I knew I would be drooling over coats again like I’ve done in years past.  Smythe is one of the brands that have been coveted on I want – I got from the beginning.  Here are my favourites pieces from Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 There are jackets for everyone: leather, bold shoulders, classic military and equestrian styles. Smythe can be purchased at Holt Renfrew, TNT Woman, Canopy Blue and Andrews in Toronto. Online shops carrying Smythe include net-a-porter.com, shopbop.com and saks.com.

TEFW – Greta Constantine and Erza Constantine Fall Winter 2010 – 2011

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The Audi dealership would host Kirk and Stephen once more as they presented the Greta and Erza Constantine Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 collections.  The boys seem to have great sponsors with Audi, Stolichnaya, Glaceau smartwater, ALDO, and Ame. There were no Rado wristbands when checking in this time instead I presented with a plexiglass rectangle engraved with the words “Greta Constantine” and a gold sticker with my seating assignment. It was a great touch and a nice little keepsake after the show. Paul Baik, my amazing Photographer was with me to catch-all the action. We went backstage to an unusually prepared team, it seemed they were waiting on the audience. I was in awe, where was the craziness and drama? It was none to find, only models milling around eating (yes, eating), talking and taking photos. It was a night of the urban, doomed heroes and the dark, noir dames. The collections are both urban and modern but completely divergent. Erza is your prototypical urban dweller, covered in layers of fashion forward garments. The …

TEFW – Breeyn McCarney Fall Winter 2010 – 2011

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I was in a foul mood when I arrived at the Courthouse to see Breeyn McCarney Fall Winter 2010 collection. I want – I got had been down for most of the day and I wanted to get home and fix it. Everything else was irrelevant at that point. Hard Boiled Wonderland was the name of the Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 collection. Haruki Murakami is what comes to mind when I think Hard Boiled Wonderland. I don’t think the ultra feminine style presented on the Breeyn runway had much to do with surrealist, cyberpunk literature. Breeyn had a mixture of knits, wool plaid, distressed cotton, mohair, bamboo and leather. She utilized rabbit fur, beads, leather and pearls as embellishments. The result was a cute collection of party dresses and sweaters. Lots of feminine details like bodices and corset like It was a cohesive collection for the most part. The final dress was out of place. It would have worked if it was the same colour palette as the rest of the collection. The jersey …

NADA Fall Winter 2010 - 2011 Future Fashion/Fashion Future in 3D

NADA Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 Future Fashion/Fashion Future in 3D

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It was interesting to see a fashion presentation in a theater. NADA Fall Winter 2010 -2011 was a 3D film presentation. The first 3D fashion film presentation of its kind. Burberry’s Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 3D live stream doesn’t count because it wasn’t a film. I heard rumours that this film cost $2 million dollars leading up to the screening. That was quickly squashed in the Q&A. Nada Shepherd was thinking about Fembots and video games. The film was like an ultra fashionable Street Fighter where the women fighters had a better wardrobe selection. It had all the classic Street Fighter selection features like weapons, settings and outfits. The video was ambitious and I’m pleased to see someone switching the traditional presentation up. The 3D wasn’t a sharp as I expected.   At the beginning of the screening we learned that the version being screened wasn’t the final cut. I have to admit the web experience isn’t better. I was hoping for better quality video and larger screen resolutions for both the 2D and …

Balenciaga Fall 2010 Shoes

Footwear trends from Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 from the shoe buyers

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I love it when the Footwear News asks the buyers their opinions of the collections. I’m always interested in what the buyers/retailers think of the collections. For the last few seasons I’ve been posting about shoe buyer’s feelings on the show. Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 is no exception. New York Todd Hanshaw, Fashion Director, Wynn Resorts, Las Vegas Strongest Trends: • Ankle booties • Fur • Ladylike, refined styles “Must-Carry” Styles : • High-heel ankle booties • Flat-sole sandals Shifts in Buying Strategy: “We are absolutely growing our budget and getting behind the point of view that we represent in the stores.” Liz Rodbell, EVP & GMM of apparel, accessories, shoes & cosmetics, Lord & Taylor Strongest Trends: • Military- and utility-inspired boots • Laceups and ankle booties on a wedge or platform • Oxfords and suede platforms “Must-Carry” Styles: • Lace-up boots • Booties • Clogs Ones to Watch: “Key designers to watch are Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Max Azria.” Shifts in Buying Strategy: “Our buying strategy remains consistent. The market looks …

TEFW – Philip Sparks Fall Winter 2010 – 2011

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Didn’t get a chance to attend Philip Sparks’ Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 show? Well they have produced a great runway video of the show that includes close ups of the outfits. I’m an unabashed Philip Sparks fan so it’s pretty hard for him not to please me. I love the Philip Sparks sailor and what great models to represent him. The presentation format was excellent. I like the half runway half installation idea and it was a nice change up. The attention to detail is always excellent and the Burroughes Building once again served as a fantastic backdrop. I was so happy to see my favourite model David C from Elmer. The last time I saw him I was at Elmer Olsen’s Christmas party. David was going to Europe for the men’s collections. I told him I hoped to see him on my computer screen. I nearly spewed coffee over my monitor when he turned up in the Alexander McQueen fall 2010 collection. Holy Shit, David walked McQueen. I later found out that David …

Rick Owens Ready to Wear - Fall Winter 2010 - 2011

Rick Owens Ready to Wear – Fall 2010 – 2011

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There is always a place for Rick on I want – I got. The Rick Owens Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 collection added some new elements: zigzag prints and geometric horn appliqués. The collection is very warrior like an urban warrior. The only things I’m not all that jazzed about in the collection are the down wrap jackets. Fashion Show Backstage images: nymag.com

Lanvin Ready to Wear - Fall 2010

What does Barbara think? Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 Edition

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I love it when the WWD asks the buyers their opinions of the collections. I’m always interested in what the buyers/retailers think of the collections. For the last few seasons I’ve been posting about Barbara Atkin’s feelings on the show. Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 is no exception. New York Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew: Trends with legs: “The drop in hems of skirts will change jackets and shoes; fabric folding and ruffling; camel, the new color of luxury; high-waisted full pants and bolder shoulders on jackets; enveloping coats; military details; sculptural tailoring and geometric body-conscious clothing.” Favorite collections: “3.1 Phillip Lim for the beautiful shearlings, knitwear, dresses, outerwear and tunics; Victoria Beckham’s sensuous dresses; Michael Kors’ long knit skirts; Oscar de la Renta’s beautiful refinement and Old-World luxury; Marc Jacobs’ simple, elegant clothes; Reed Krakoff’s utilitarian sportswear; Alexander Wang; Philip Lim, and The Row — style that’s relevant to many generations.”(source) Milan Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew: “The designer business is on an upswing and our …

Sacai Ready to Wear - Fall 2010

Sacai Ready to Wear – Fall 2010

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I’m loving that Sacai is becoming more popular.  Style.com has posted the collection for two seasons in a row now.  There are more photos available of the collections and now instead of  judys we get real models.  I love Sacai’s Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 collection. Chitose Abe, Sacai’s designer,creates contradictions that work. In typical Sacai style, tweeds and knits combined with anorak details create a unique look. Items looks like separates but are really one piece. The ropey knits are thick and substantial. Sacai is available at Holt Renfrew.  I always take the opportunity to check out Sacai in person.  The construction needs visual inspection, so inventive and different. images: the Fashion Spot

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2010 Shoes

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The shoes in the Balenciaga Fall 2010 collection needed a post of their own. I always anticipate crazy shoes from Balenciaga and this time we got block heel brogues and loafers. What do you think of the shoes? I’m liking the three shoes in the top photo.   I love the colour combinations too.  I hope they aren’t crazy heavy shoes.  They look it. via Balenciaga Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review.

Balenciaga Ready to Wear - Fall 2010

Balenciaga Ready to Wear – Fall Winter 2010 – 2011

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Nicolas Ghesquière was influenced by cosmonauts, seventies Formica, packaging and food boxes, Synthetic foam, plywood, sleeping bags and biscuits for the Balenciaga Fall 2010 collection. The weirder Nicolas goes the more I eat it up. He’s pushing new techniques and fabrics advancing the technology. Nicolas Ghesquière is one of those designers who I still has that freedom to go crazy with his vision and execute it. I love the coloured eyebrows. It looks really cool. This was a very structured armor-like collection. I see shades of Balenciaga Spring 2010 in this collection. It’s an explosion of colour. Despite the strange styling there are some wearable pieces. I’m fond of the belted sweaters, the armor-like dresses in the vein of Spring 2010. Have you seen the footware, that’s the topic of another post. There is a lot of play with texture and prints. Visit nytimes.com for large hi res images of the Balenciaga fall 2010 collection. Here is a short video which highlights all the looks.. The full fashion show video is available. It’s a must …

Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear - Fall 2010

Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear – Fall 2010

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Here it is, the last collection. The Alexander McQueen Fall 2010 collection was perfection. I can’t believe we will never see the product of his genius again. It’s just so sad. I’ve included the full collection here. You might want to head to nytimes.com’s fashion section. They have huge hi res photos from the Alexander McQueen Fall collection. You are going to want to see the incredible shoes up close. The jewellery is fantastic and I love the huge collar necklace.  Of course, you’ll want to see the exquisite beading and prints.  The nytimes.com doesn’t report on all the fashion shows, but the lucky ones are given great hi res treatment. images: style.com

Stella McCartney Ready to Wear – Fall 2010

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I don’t normally talk about Stella McCartney on I want – I got but the fall 2010 collection perked my interest. Stella McCartney has always been a collection that I love in person. She’s good but not someone I’ve vocal about. That’s changing with Fall 2010. She went very minimal and sleek with the collection but managed to add some details I didn’t expect: sheer organza, paillettes, and embroidery. There are a few misses, I’m not in love with the fuchsia items and some of the jackets just don’t work. Not a fan of the jumpsuit either. I’m noticing a trend with what I call the fashion mullet. Yup, that’s right people, it’s the short long dress. I first noticed it when Coco Rocha debuted that dress from her collection. I wasn’t a fan, it was a bit too costumey. I’m not sure I like the trend and I think it might be gaining speed. Stella wins me over with most of her fashion mullet pieces. I think that is what amazes me most about …

Viktor & Rolf Ready to Wear - Fall 2010

Viktor & Rolf Ready to Wear – Fall 2010

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Viktor & Rolf called their fall 2010 show Glamour Factory. It’s a fitting name for the spectacle they put one. They revisited their decade old Babushka themed collection and added some 21st century twists. The presentation needs to be seen so I have video. It’s just perfect. The soundtrack is amazing, I need to track down the songs. The collection is very sporty and the models wore baseball caps. The clothing is pretty standard except for the few show pieces. I think most people will remember the presentation itself, which as a piece of performance art was pretty amazing. Part 1 Part 2 God, that soundtrack. I must have it. image: style.com

Lanvin Ready to Wear – Fall Winter 2010

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The Lanvin Fall 2010 Collection felt very savage to me. Perhaps it was the dark bobs or the dark, robotic jewellery. It was a series of powerful looks that would make great fashion armour. The is drama with lots of feathers, furs and beading.  The clothes also add drama with pleats.  The collection consisted of dark colours and the occasional metallic. Here are two great collection preview videos. Found the official Lanvin video images: style.com

Haider Ackermann Ready to Wear – Fall 2010

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Haider Ackermann Fall 2010 Collection is the exception to my no black and brown together rule. I love the undulating collars that can be wrapped around the neck and the peplums that can be removed. The clothing is very architectural in nature. I love the use of the zippers to give the curves some stiffness. The cocoon coats are a great contrast to the more elaborate parts of the collection. The laser cut leather was a very nice touch. images: style.com

Celine Ready to Wear - Fall 2010

Celine Ready to Wear – Fall Winter 2010 – 2011

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Celine Fall 2010 is another sleek, wearable ride from Phoebe Philo. She’s used texture in outerwear and continued with the sleek leathers. The accessories are spectacular starting with the great riding boot with the gold block heel. I also love the orange clutch. This video isn’t is the full collection, but it has beautiful shots of the looks. It can be viewed in HD. images: style.com, thefashionspot.com

Rad Hourani Ready to Wear – Fall 2010

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Rad Hourani may get called repetitive but I really enjoy what he does season to season. I just wish better video would come out of his shows. There is quite a lot of detail in the line but because everything is black it’s not often represented fully in photos. I do love the androgyny of the collection. I enjoy looking through the photos and not being limited to considering only the women’s looks. That isn’t something that I really think of when looking at men’s and women’s clothing but with Rad it’s a little different. images: Pablo Ravazzani, nymag.com