I have been kinda lukewarm to Rita Liefhebber‘s last two collections. Nothing has touched the enjoyment I received from the Spring Summer 2009 collection. It had it all, a super cool presentation space in the back of The Black Hoof and lots of great food. Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 presentation at Jonathan+Olivia almost brought me back to that Spring Summer 2009 high.
It was all about the tops and jackets for me anything else barely registered. I just loved the hand crafted splatter and tie-dye which add an artistic touch to minimalist clothing. The usual winter fabrics like wool, cashmere and mohair were used. Rita also jumped on the velvet trend that everyone in Toronto is doing. The tie-dye velvet shirts are just beautiful. Rita’s inspiration was: “globular clusters, Gamma-ray bubbles, spheroid halo, local fluff”. The jackets were also standout pieces for me. The collection has a very “model off duty” look to it. You can pair pieces with jeans and boots or dress it up with a jacket and heels.
I had a little peek of a few items from the collection at various times prior to the show. First visit was jersey dresses and the second visit was the long melton wool kimono inspired jackets. There was talk of velvet in the studio as I swung the jacket over my shoulders. Greta in velvet, I thought, that could be interesting. Little did I know that velvet would be everywhere this Toronto Fashion Week. Kirk and I talked about the inspiration which included the Orient and a link between past and future.
The collection surprised me in a good way. It wasn’t just jersey dresses; Kirk and Stephen were dressing for a Canadian winter. Greta Constantine’s Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection is romantic and sultry. The colours were rich: charcoal, crimson, mushroom, cobalt and eggplant with slate and black being the complementary neutrals. I loved all the cocoon shaped jackets, especially the one in velvet. Other fabrics used this season included double knit, jersey, neoprene, leather, and fur. I loved the layered on styling, it looked so warm and cosy.
There are some pieces that don’t really work with the 2D nature of photos. The voluminous capes and skirt don’t look great in photos but the effect was like a quilt without all the stitching. It was like being wrapped up in a big cozy blanket which might not appeal to some but I thought was excellent. I like warm in the winter and need alternative to down jackets. The melton wool Kimono coats looked so great on the runway. It’s dressing as a kick ass superhero or action star. Too bad it’s not practical to have a train on your jacket but they can be shortened for retail. The capes are cute on the runway but I still can’t see myself wearing one yet. I have a vintage one in my closet that I’ve never worn. I loved the pants. The collection also featured their signature jersey dresses which has some interesting cutout features on the side and backs.
Aldo created an exclusive line of Greta Constantine shoes in four styles using fabric that Kirk and Stephen had acquired but couldn’t use for the show. The shoes are pretty amazing and all the models got to keep a pair. I got some close up shots.
Ezra Constantine Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 had me at the billowing parka. I’m a sucker for that silhouette. Put anything on a piece that looks like a cape and I’ll be all over it. It plays on all my superhero desires. I enjoyed the drape applied to Ezra this season. I also enjoyed my shirtless men but was wonder where our dear Paolo was. Ezra wasn’t into colour with slate, charcoal, mushroom and white being the palette. Fabrics were the same as Greta Constantine except the lack of velvet and fur.
I got the finale walk on video. It’s pretty dark but meh. It was dark. Great job on the show music Diego!
I made a last minute executive decision to skip The Heart Truth Fashion Show. I went to see Rita Liefhebber’s Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection at Jonathan+Olivia instead. I was more intrigued with what Rita would be producing for fall. Their PR team followed up with a link to the livestream feed if you are interested in checking out the action.
Canadian celebrities strutted the catwalk tonight modeling one-of-a kind red dresses by top Canadian fashion designers to raise awareness about women’s risk for heart disease and stroke at the fourth annual Heart Truth Fashion Show.
“We’re reaching Canadian women with this lifesaving message: it’s time to take charge of your heart healthâ€, says Bobbe Wood, CEO of the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Canada. “Make healthy lifestyle choices, monitor your cholesterol and blood pressure levels, and advocate for the care you need from your doctor. And to Canadian men, we say support the women you love to protect their heart health.â€
Arthur Mendonça presented a very 70s Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection at the Trump Tower. “Wow, there are a number of looks” is the first thing that popped into my head as I sat in my seat and skimmed the linesheet.  I knew Dean Davidson was one of Arthur’s collaborators but I had no idea that Liliput Hats were too. The pairing was wonderful. Everything worked so well together. The makeup did the job of portraying the glamorous 70s à la Studio 54. It was beautiful
Dean’s jewellery centred on the bar shape and his signature brushed finish applied. They are minimal in style. Lilliput Hats created fedoras and lux turbans in velvet and sequined silk.
Images: by Jenna Marie Wakani for torontolife.com
Arthur often referenced with Tom Ford and YSL in the media but I think his homage to Denis Gagnon (black tux photo) is much more interesting to talk about. Now, I don’t know if it was done on purpose. It’s just the first thing that popped into my head when I saw the model walkout. I thought it was cute. Denis is awesome.
I walked away wanting to have some of the collection to wear to work.  I loved the sleeker evening wear options with the long purple gown being a favourite. I loved all the purple as you can see. Jumpsuits also made me happy. They are a paint in the ass to go to the bathroom in but I love them.
I was a disaster when it came to recording any images from the Arthur Mendonça Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 show. I didn’t get any photos because I was filming video. However, I accidentally filmed the show in Diorama mode. Yup, stupid rookie E-PL2 mistake. Diorama mode creates the illusion of a model (as in model truck) world. It’s a fun effect but not for a fashion show. I’ve posted it for kicks. It also reduces a 15 minute fashion show into about a minute and a half,
A common complaint I hear about Mihkael Kale’s clothing is wearability. I should think that after four years people would understand that Mihkael designs are not for everyone and I don’t think he will be going in a mass direction anytime soon. There are many things I can’t wear due to design, shape or price. That doesn’t stop me from enjoying them aesthetically. I like niche designers, they keep things interesting.
I’ve referred to Mihkael as a designer who can throw everything and the kitchen sink at something and make it look incredible. Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 featured crystal and pearl encrusted details, chain embroidered roses and sequined bodices.
There was a lot of skin in Mikhael’s collection. You’d almost think it was a spring collection. Cutouts incorporated resembled bondage to me. Amazing there wasn’t one bare midriff in all the skin. Caucasian nude fabric played peak a boo with one oxblood dress with chain embroidered roses. At first glance I thought the fabric was flesh. Thankfully there were some coats and pants to bring the collection back into a fall winter direction.
The black net cutout jumpsuit with draped chiffon is about the only cutout piece I could see myself wearing with any confidence. It has a practical aspect as you can layer clothing over it to tone down its sexiness. It could never be workwear. The bum cheek cutouts makes that impossible.
I sneaked away from taking photos at the Philip Sparks fall winter 2011 – 2012 presentation to pop down to the 4th floor of the Burroughs Building to check out the Alexander Berardi Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 collection. Jessica Jensen was hosting Alexander Berardi as he showed off his fall winter 2011 – 2012 wears to buyers and media for three days in Toronto.
This season’s inspiration finds its beginnings in Ali MacGraw and the 1970 hit movie “Love Story”, set in snowy New England. The Berardi girl loves the city, but she’s no stranger to laying about the fire at her country house with friends, and she needs to be ready for both worlds.
Once again, Alexander has us excited for eclectic pairings of long standing fashion staples. Always classic with a modern twist, this season is about making the old new again; reinterpreting the winter jacket with special wood beading
embroidery; reinventing plaid prints in modern cuts for a perfect Upper East Side school girl look; and reviving vintage
knitwear for a luxurious varsity styling.(source Press Release)
The collection features wool twill, silk georgette, knits, silk chiffon, silk twill, sequins and ultrasuede. I found myself liking the collegiate look of Alexander Berardi fall winter 2011 – 2012.
Check out my favourite looks from the Alexander Berardi Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 lookbook
Mark Fast Fall Winter 2011 - 2012 from London Fashion Week - Dietrich Coat
Mark Fast returned to Canada and presented a tightly edited version of his London Fashion Week fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection. This was the first time he has presented a fashion show in Canada. The fall winter collection was the debut of his collaboration with Canadian leather retailer Danier. This was one of three shows presented at the Trump Tower Toronto which is still under construction.
“Things are not what they seem to be, they are mysterious and disguised. I used the energy of the movement of a wolf’s vicious anger to be projected into the cuts of knitted pieces and leather garments. I am using merino wool and elastomeric mixes in the knitted dresses. I wanted to create a softer, warmer silhouette. I also used leathers to evoke the strictness and attitude of this women”. – Mark Fast (from press release)
Mark Fast Fall Winter 2011 - 2012 from London Fashion Week - Big Bad Wolf Coat
It was a total delight to see the knitwear wizard’s collection up close. The knits are so intricate and I loved the play on textures. Wool, alpacha, merino, mohair joined with nylon, polymaide and elastane to create a number of knits of different thickness and designs. Mark worked with the Woolmark Company to produced the these amazing innovations in natural luxury fibers. It was all very sexy with the strategic cutouts and sheer panels. My favourite pieces are the Big Bad Wolf Coat, the Wolf’s Tooth dress in orange and the amazing Dietrich coat.
Mark Fast Fall Winter 2011 - 2012 from London Fashion Week
I loved the leather pieces. I’m hoping the leather high-waist trousers and cropped parka made it to production. The Danier x Mark Fast collaboration will use pieces from Mark’s fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection as inspiration for the line. Obviously, Danier has to think about how to translate these fashion forward designs into something more palatable by the masses. I’m hoping Danier has some e-commerce options worked out for fall because I can see a demand from international customers.
While I enjoyed the Mark Fast fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection it seemed the leather collaboration didn’t integrate with Mark’s design aesthetic as much as I would have liked. I was hoping to see some amazing leather and knit combinations. The lack of those pieces made it seem as if they were two separate collections, leather and knits. The London show was much longer and had more leather. It easier to see the difference. I think this is because I’ve put Mark into this knitwear pigeonhole and I’m having a rough time getting past it. That being said, I’m still excited as all hell to buy some Mark Fast x Danier leather in the fall.
Instead of photos I took video of the Mark Fast Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 fashion show.
Jeanne Beker interviewed Mark Fast and Mikhael Kale before their fashion shows at Trump Tower Toronto. I have video of most of the interview to share with you. I missed the first couple minutes.
The week before the official LG Fashion Week is always getting bigger and better. The Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 edition was packed with big names and a comeback. I dubbed the week Toronto Extended Fashion Week a few seasons back but it seems that Rogue Fashion Week has cemented itself as the name. I like it. Philip Sparks Fall Winter 2011 – 2012 kicked things off.
Philip asked me participate in the show by taking photos of the action backstage and beyond. Olympus Canada sponsored the Philip Sparks fall winter 2011 – 2012 show so each insider was handed a new Olympus PEN E-PL2. (You can check out the photos on the Olympus Canada facebook page.) Regular readers know I’m a fan of the E-PL1 and it has taken many shots I’ve posted on this site. I was itching to play with the E-PL2.
Philip Sparks fall winter was all about Canadian winter and activities like skating, skiing and tobogganing. The collection wasn’t new to me. I saw it in the various stages of production and even did fit model for a pair of high-waisted pants one Sunday. Philip”s print used a photo he had taken of red maple leaves. The photo enlarged to make the leaves a little distorted and larger. When he rolled this fabric out on the work table in the studio, I immediately said “I want this in a full skirt.” I’m really lucky to get to see all sides of a collection and the hard work designers and their teams go though.
This collection celebrates Canadian winter with a focus on wool suiting and signature outwear. Functional menswear details like flannel lining in denim and triple ply shirting add warmth while maintaining a slim cut.
Women’s pieces feature pin tucking and exaggerated pleats. Our favourite accessories include mountain sheep collars and an oversized scarf inspired by the geometric pattern of Ontario blankets. (Fall 2011 show notes)
The presentation area was laid out in typical Philip Sparks fashion and snow sports equipment helped to frame the scene. The focal point was the giant quilt backdrops by Toronto artist Grant Heaps. Grant is amazing. I’ve seen his work at other shows before and my jaw dropped when I saw the size of these pieces. Such a talent.
Overall, I loved the collection but I’m heavily bias. Philip always does a great job of expressing his theme. The womenswear and menswear complement each other so nicely. My favourite skirt shape is the full skirt and Philip Sparks is the master of them. I own one from the spring summer 2011 collection and I so happy with it. I love the maple leaf photo print sateen and wool/linen combinations. I died over the Moss Tweed kimono coat with mountain sheep collar. I’d seen its transformation from a muslin to sample. It must be part of my Philip Sparks winter wardrobe. The wool and cashmere tweet skating dress with mountain sheep muff and beehive hat is such a great look. That dress was another one I saw from sketch to sample. My last favourite is the plaid cotton pin-tucked shirtdress. Alon Freeman, stylist is a long time collaborator with Philip Sparks and his work is always reflective of the them of the season.
I also did a little interview with Fashion Television about the show where I promptly forgot Philip’s fall winter 2011 – 2012 theme and couldn’t comment on that particular question. It was embarrassing. I didn’t read the liner notes ahead of time and I know Philip and I talked about the theme many, many times before.
I had to represent Philip and wear a little something I picked up from the spring 2011 collection, the cherry blossom print jumper.
I paired it with some teal coloured tights from H&M, a black Dries Van Noten blazer and a Club Monaco belt.
I made a little video backstage using the N8 too.
See all of my photos from the Philip Sparks fall winter 2011 – 2012
See the entire Philip Sparks fall winter 2011 – 2012 collection
Denis Gagnon never disappoints. His spring summer 2011 collection wowed the audience on Friday. It begs the question, why is Denis still showing in Canada? I really think he could hit up a capital and I hope he does. The man needs to be a household name in the fashion industry worldwide. His work makes me weep that I’m not wealthy enough to own it all.
Stripes, chains, zippers and string were the major themes. Stripes can be hard to wear sometimes but Denis Gagnon strategically used angles to ensure the best possible silhouette. String is back from the previous season and thank god for that. Those looks have so much movement to them, it’s mesmerizing. All I can think about is dancing in them and how much fun it would be. It was a primarily black and white collection but there were dresses in green, blue, orange and silver. Ombre dipped string added a beautiful effect to dresses down the runway.
The models weren’t very strong and you could see their hesitation with the special made double platform heels. The models were a minor distraction most people including myself were staring at the clothing. The chain detail is so intricate and special. I wonder how much time is needed to create a piece like this. I saw a few pieces of the collection up close and personal at Holt Renfrew for the personal appearance. Amazing is the only way to describe it, absolutely amazing. I will have to play dress up in Holt’s come spring. Denis Gagnon is always part of that game for me.
The styling was perfect for the collection. I didn’t notice the facial piercings on some of the models until looking at the photos. It works for this urban tribal world Denis has created. Someone pointed out to the hair at Alexander Wang’s NYC show. At first glance I could see similarities. The model’s hair incorporates braids in this style and it just looks better. There isn’t any awful white paint. Denis created all the amazing handbags shown this season. I was drooling over all of them, especially the fringy ones. Denis does know how to design a handbag as seen with his Fullum & Holt collaboration a few years back. I suspect he had something to do with the jewellery too this season.
Thursday was the only day of LG Fashion Week I didn’t attend. I spend the day in New York City with some research and development folks from Intel. I was geeking out and loving it but that post will come later. There were a few collections I wanted to check out on Thursday but when NYC calls I tend to forget everything else. Most of the collections were during the day so I wouldn’t have seen them even if I was in the country.
The last Baby Steinberg show I saw was for Frugal Fashion Week at the Bata Shoe Museum. I’m amazed at how she takes reusable materials and creates clothing out them. For some reason there are no photos from Schick available for Baby Steinberg so check out the photos and videos on the LG Fashion Week site.
Klaxon Howl has a great collection of military clothing and it a favourite because of my love of military. I once bought a cute white sailor hat from the store. It’s one of those places that makes me wish I was a guy to take advantage of all the good stuff. I was a little disappointed the collection wasn’t heavily military influenced. The things that stood out for me the most were the women’s looks.
I really wanted to see the THOMAS show too. Their style aesthetic seems to ber much inline with my own. I liked the women’s looks but the men’s were so much more compelling. I’m loving the super slouchy pants.
Line Knitwear is branching out and it’s not all about the knits anymore. This season brings separates and dresses in fabrics like leathers and silks. Typically Line Knitwear creates knit tops and leather jackets so I was surprised at this new development. Now I’m interested to see how John and Jennifer expand this already very successful company.
The knits this time around looked crocheted. Spring Summer 2011 is about sheer knits without a lot of bulk. Line is expecting the midriff to return and there were lots of cropped knit tops for that purpose. The knits were only a small part of the story this season. Line brought out some high-waisted, pleated pants, shorts and culottes in leather and suede. Cloud like prints on silk were used for relaxed, loose-fitting pants and jumpsuits. The palette consisted of muted colours and I was glad it wasn’t a total camel fest. Instead it was olive, orange and rose.
I wish more designers would leave line sheets on the seats for media and guests. It would have helped me to identify the materials used in the dresses that reminded me of 70s crocheted hanging planters. It was weird how those dresses brought back memories of family homes in the 70s. Some of my favourite pieces include the printed pants and jumpsuit. The loose-fitting leather pants and shorts are a nice change to the typical bodycon we see with leather. I wasn’t feeling the culotte versions though as they look great on models but I’m skeptical about real people. We are just too short to make it look good. I really liked a lot of the collection and can’t wait to see the lookbook.
Handbag designer Jessica Jensen collaborated with a young New York designer named Alexander Berardi on a collection of limited edition handbags that complements his Spring Summer 2011 collection. The collaboration debuted during NYFW but Jessica and Alexander decided to show at LG Fashion Week in Toronto. Alexander Berardi was the youngest person to show at the new Lincoln Center tents this season.
The inspiration for the collections was the movie Breathless by Godard. It was a nautical inspired collection with lots of Breton stripes and preppy influences. I had never seen Breathless so after the show I decided to watch the movie. I got through about 30 mins mostly focusing on the styles of the female protagonist. I thought the handbags and clothing did a very good job of conveying the style featured in the movie. I really liked the looks with the stripes. While I’m not loving the camel colour trend it works well with the blue, white and grey colour palette.
This was a well presented collaboration. Both designers complemented each other perfectly and I’d love to see this happen more often. The Spring Summer 2011 Jessica Jensen collection will be available for pre-ordered online at www.shopjessicajensen.com on November 15, 2010.
It’s been press crazy for my this LG Fashion Week. I love it.
I was on the radio. CBC Radio One Metro Morning had me over on Monday to chat up LG Fashion Week and the industry.
Guest host Karen Horsman spoke with Anita Clarke. She writes a fashion blog called ” I want, I got”.
They are amazing and have made a podcast so you can listen to it. CBC Radio One Metro Morning Fashion Week SS11.
I took part in a video for FASHION at Holt Renfrew’s all-Canadian show
that was posted on The Globe and Mail’s website.
Finally I was interviewed for a story in 24Hours Dress to impress at Toronto Fashion Week. t’s propagated over the Sun Media network and can be found on a bunch of their websites.
Kimberley Newport-Mimran had the 70s on the brain while designing the Pink Tartan spring summer 2011 collection. The 70s is a major trend that appeared on the runways of high fashion capitals. It resulted in a looser fit, shiny fabrics and lots of colour. Â Pink Tartan used colour blocking, stripes and sheers with a 70s touch. Â This is my favourite Pink Tartan collection. Â It was a joy to watch. Â The presentation was cute with the models taking positions on risers beside the runway after their pose.
I enjoyed so many elements of this show.  The batik style prints worked well on the jacket and the maxi dress.  Jewel tone strapless jumpsuits make me very happy.  Great looks featuring shorts with cute blazers.  Amanda Laine’s outfit was my favourite on Monday at the Holt Renfrew show.  The green and black print reminds me of Proenza Schouler.  It’s amazing that the ethereal sheer tiered maxidress came in neon yellow.  I dig the neon and I’m glad Kim is too.  I want it all.
I loved the leopard print. Â The spots are just the right size. Â A leopard print jumpsuit rounds out the great collection of jumpsuits from Pink Tartan. In a sea of wide leg pants there were a few slim choices and I loved the orange pair. Â The colours in this collection gave off some serious wattage on the runway. Â They are so bright. Â George Antonopoulos the stylist who put the looks together did an amazing job. The boater hats were cute choice.
The collection is so vibrant and inviting but I’m not a fan of  the shiny black fabric used in some looks.  From a collection cohesion perspective they worked but I didn’t particularly enjoy them.  I can’t wait to see that neon in the stores come 2011.
I battle the crowds and complete silliness of attending a Joe Fresh show for one reason. Models. It’s not for the clothing in any way shape or form. This season Joe brought in Crystal Renn and Kirsten Owen. I had to see Crystal Renn with my own eyes as I’ve had suspicion about this “plus size” label she has been given. You know what people, it’s all bullshit. Crystal Renn is a far cry from plus sized. People who seem to think that this is a win for the average sized women seem to forget that Crystal Renn is anything but average. This girl is a model the last time I checked. She’s 5’10 and has all the features that required. She’s on the edges of that bell curve and that is the complete opposite of your average person. She is gorgeous and has great hair.
Joe Fresh jumped on the fur bandwagon hard. Of course a lot was faux. I thought everything was faux but the line sheet is telling me differently. I really don’t want to know how Joe Fresh can produce real fur gloves for $16 or a fur peacoat at $99 . Faux/real fur Chanel 2.55 handbag knockoffs, vests, peacoats, elbow length gloves, hats, scarfs and swing coats all paraded down the runway. I wanted it to stop, everything but the crème swing coat was awful. That coat was a stroke of brilliance in the collection. It looked real and had great movement. It retails for $99.
There were a lot of sporty influences and track pants and sweatshirts were pretty prominent. Plaid mohair fabric in blue, pink and red became skirts, jackets, capes and scarves. I like the fur, I didn’t enjoy these pieces much.  The collection managed to include sequins, animal print and military details too. Yes, it was a bit all over the place but what do you expect for 52 looks from Joe Fresh.
The shoes intrigued me. I spotted some Bess boot and Alexander McQueen knockoffs. I haven’t heard many good things about the fit of Joe Fresh shoes but I would be willing to check these out come fall if I can find them. It seems many pieces from the fashion show are difficult to come across in the retail stores.
LGFW – Pink Tartan Fall Winter 2010 Favourite Looks
The Olympus PEN died just before the Pink Tartan Fall Winter 2010 fashion show. I have no pictures and I wasn’t happy. Just another headache to deal with on Wednesday which was painful. Battling crowds and terrible entrance points into the runway room has a way of turning one into a bitch very quickly. I remembered how I spent the Spring 2010 Pink Tartan show, drinking a Peroni in the VIP area watching the show on the LG tvs. I wished for a return to those simple days.
The show opened with an electric Violinist. I really don’t know what he had to do with the collection. The theme of the Pink Tartan show is aviation. The models wore aviator style hats. Winged shoes and harnesses made of fur and feathers evoked winged gods like Icarus or Mercury. There were bomber jackets of the puffy variety and ones made of leather and trimmed with fur or Mongolian fur. Shapes were generally body conscious with legging like pants and dresses. Some dresses broke from their body con counterparts at the waist with full skirts. There were a lot of details: shoulders were high and rounded or pearl encrusted, ruffles gathered at the centre of the body on dresses and tops, zipper tops and bows.
LGFW – Pink Tartan Fall Winter 2010 Favourite Looks
I’m really sick of seeing fur on the runway. So many designers are using it because it’s trendy and not a product of their theme for Fall. Pink Tartan’s fur usage had been harmless enough until this horrible, ill fitted fur skirt came down the runway. All I thought was, “They actually sent this monstrosity out on the runway.” It looked terrible and stiff on the model and when it doesn’t look good on them you are in trouble. It was a completely out-of-place piece that should have stayed backstage. The lone jodhpur look could have stayed too, the theme is aviation not equestrian.
Edit, edit, edit. I say this all the time. I guess people feel the need to have long shows. I say Celine has shown us you can have a 4 minute show and no one will care, some will even rave about it. There were a lot of repetition of looks in different colours. I don’t think it’s necessary to see the dress with fur bottom in all three colour choices. Especially when your audience is already losing focus.
LGFW – Pink Tartan Fall Winter 2010 Favourite Looks
Garment construction is never an issue with Pink Tartan but I was a bit bored by the collection. Remove the obvious show pieces and you’re left with some strong but standard looks. I did have a few favourites though.
I didn’t even know about the Mikhael Kale presentation at the Spoke Club until the day before. Thankfully a resourceful and close fashion friend alerted me to this and expertly took care of everything. Soon we were rushing out of Evan Biddel and hopping into a cab desperately hoping to make the start of the show.
I only see Mikhael’s collections at the Holt Renfrew’s LG Fashion week cocktail parties. This year it became a breakfast and I was at the office in a meeting room with my lovely coworkers discussing trade processing and business scenarios. The joys of a double life. I was really disappointed that I missed the breakfast so I didn’t want to miss the Spoke Club gig either.
We made it to the show in the nick of time. The runway room was tightly packed and had a raised runway. I knew my newbie camera skills would fail me again. I tried my best with the photos but being backlight and super close didn’t help me. TCHAD has some photos of the event including backstage shots.. The show featured a few looks from Mikhael’s Spring Summer 2010 and Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 collections.
TFW - Mikhael Kale - Spring Summer 2010
Spring was a series of super short pastel coloured dresses. Some were strapless and details included snake-skin accents and brocade fabrics. I would wear leggings or really opaque tights with these dresses, they are a little too short for me and I love showing leg. The Mikhael Kale website has a good display of all the looks in the spring summer 2010 collection.
TFW - Mikhael Kale - Fall Winter 2010 2011
This was the only collection of the week that floored me. He showed a series of dead sexy dresses and contrasting minimal coats. The looks were beautiful, inventive, rich in detail and well constructed. Mikhael is the only person that can put so many design details on a garment and get away with it. It really is a gift. The dresses incorporated sheer panels, mini ruffles, reptile like fabrics, beading, applique and plastic floral like embellishments. The colour palette was only grey and black.
TFW - Mikhael Kale - Fall Winter 2010 2011
The finale jumpsuit with the reptile treated fabric was to die for. I would learn from Mikhael after the show that he created the fabric himself by dipping it in acrylic and cracking it to create the pattern. I can just see this man holed up in his studio for days at a time without emerging working on his creations.
I’ve always thought Mikhael Kale was one of those under the radar designers. It’s a shame more media didn’t know about this show. Photos of Mikhael’s work is hard to come by on the Internet. Hopefully the article “Made in Canada: Breakfast with a Whole New Generation of Designers” on Vogue.com changes that.
You can always expect a specific point of view from Evan Biddell. The Fall Winter 2010 collection continued with Evan’s obsession with the cocoon shape and a new fabric, cork. It was the most interesting items in the collection. He transformed cork into shorts, skirts and jackets. One jacket in particular made the wearer look like a Geiger Alien. The cork was stiff but not the point where it looked unwearable. It was more appealing to me than the PVC cocoon shapes that preceded the wave of cork pieces.
Understanding that head on images would not display any volume, Evan had the models stand at the end of the runway and face sideways to the photographer’s pit. Fall Winter 2010 wasn’t as cohesive as what I saw with Spring 2010 at OZ Studios. The 80s prints, pvc, fringe, ruffles, animal print and cork left me wondering what direction Evan was going. It was a battle between sleek bodycon and volume away from the body. The short video that preceded the runway show was random and I don’t see its relation to the collection. Maybe there isn’t one.
It was a great show and I enjoyed myself. The sci-fi references alone had me on board. I love Evan’s inventive nature. I had a preview of the cork shorts during my visit to the OZ Studios and I thought they were great. I didn’t expect him to make so many different cork looks, it was pretty amazing. The prints were very 80s but I loved their bright, bold nature. Evan Biddell occupies a small niche in fashion, he’s not corporate or looking for mass appeal. It’s refreshing to see his point of view. Too bad the FDCC didn’t allow him to show at his newly opened OZ Studios. I would have loved to see what he came up with.
Pictures are getting better but I still have a lot of work to do as a newbie Olympus E-PL1 user. Here are some of my favourite looks.
Rita Liefhebber Fall Winter 2010 collection was in a truck parked outside The Black Hoof on Dundas Street West. A group of the city’s cool kids and fashion industry types gathered as I walked up. Like Rita’s Spring 2010 presentation, The Hoof was catering. Every once in a while someone with a tray of Hoof specialties would come out and feed the fashion folk. Too bad there was no drinking allowed on the corner.
I enjoy the change of pace with fashion presentations. Rita’s idea of presenting in a truck felt much like an art installation. Many people commented about how it felt like Nuit Blanche with the group of people milling around outside the truck. The models stood between judys that look made of cellophane tape. The judys showed the collection during NYC Fall Winter 2010 market in February. The presentation was well done but it made for crappy photos for a newbie Olympus E-PL1 user.
I don’t have a strong idea of the Rita Liefhebber brand. The fall collection looks like it’s moving in a different direction. It’s not what I expected after spring 2010. Fall Winter 2010 didn’t have as many looks either. It’s probably too early to make comparisons and try to figure out trends, it has been only two seasons. That being said, I loved the ruched skirts and the roped wool on jackets. It might be these two details that are throwing me off. I’m expected more of the Spring 2010 minimal and relaxed styles.
Lundström came out first with the La Parka and a few other jackets. Then Lundström Collection paraded out looks I could see on women by my office in the financial district. I heard a lot of negatives things about the show from others. It’s not my style but I think it was a success for the demographic Eleventh Floor Apparel is targeting. Juliana Schiavinatto’s (she did Line Knitwear too) styling was very good. I usually hate velvet but it was well done. The colour, tabac is a good choice for the conservative demographic. I liked the ombre mohair jackets in black and white. Those were the only two pieces that got any reaction me. The fabrics sound delightful: silk, mohair, velvet, alpaca, angora and cashmere. There is some dreaded taffeta in there though, grrr.
It was my first outing with the Olympus E-PL1 camera and I missed a lot of shots. The lighting in the runway room is always a problem for me.
I’ve been excited for the Line Knitwear Fall Winter 2010 fashion show since I learned about it from John Muscat and Jennifer Wells. I went to the Fall Winter 2010 Lookbook photoshoot a few months back. I spend the day hanging out with the crew and getting a great preview of all the Fall merchandise.
I was all over it, a full range of textures and weights in knits and the leathers jackets. The collection has all my favourite shapes and details: long, oversized, sheer, chunky and dramatic movement. All the pieces were stylish and functional. I wanted all the looks.
I wanted to see which pieces they would pull and use to present as a collection. They would be presenting a single message for Line Knitwear. They shot over 100 looks that day, it’s a lot of clothing to edit. I was also interested to see what underpinnings they would come up with to complement.
The underpinnings were brilliant. The models wore slouchy, sheer knit leggings and thermal underwear like bodysuits with exposed full brief panties and occasional nipple. Knits of all textures covered the shoes. There were thigh high or little booties with chunky knits or Mongolian hair. Scarves and wraps were so rich in texture they looked opulent.   I died over the cream and black long ruffled scarves again (I did it first at the lookbook photoshoot). The clothing was a display of all the different techniques Line Knitwear has to offer in a variety of sweater dresses, cardigans, scarves, ponchos, tank tops, tshirts and sweaters. The collection stuck to black, grey and crème for the most part but a few looks were in seafoam and coral. They stuck to a single print which resembled tree branches.
I really enjoyed the show.  John and Jennifer received a well deserved standing O. Great models and amazing clothing you can’t go wrong. I can’t think of a better way to introduce a Canadian success story to the Toronto fashion community.  I received a copy the final lookbook a few days before the show.  It was interesting to see what wasn’t shown. The 40+ looks shown are less than half of what is available for buyers to purse.  Line also does great leather jackets. I know that Fawn carries them.
See the full collection
Photos of the Line Fashion Show Taken by Paul Baik for I want – I got www.paulbaikphoto.com
So, I was asked to style a Barbie doll for LG Fashion Week. I thought it would be fun so I accepted the challenge. It turned out that Barbie was an albatross.
I had a bunch of ideas for Barbie swirling in my head: Give her a haircut, make her a mini me, fur, etc. It was really hard to boil it down. With the deadline soon approaching I came up with something and I thought it was pretty fucking clever. Dare to Wear Love Barbie. Here is my quote for her
“I guess this is the Dare to Wear Love Barbie. I really loved the small samples of fabric that were left on front row seats at the Dare to Wear Love show last season. I collected them all. Barbie’s proportions allowed me to create the wrap dress I could never wear given the amount of material.”
I made the dress (check that architectural shoulder), the necklace and bracelets. I also dyed the shoes and handbag to match. Â She also got a little haircut. My mom thought she was excellent, I was confident. I was all proud of myself and the great tie in to last LG Fashion week. I packed up Barbie and dropped her off to the GCI Group Toronto office.
It was the next day I got the call. Apparently there was a theme and it was LBD. Dare to Wear Love Barbie didn’t fit that theme. Now, I read the brief that was given to me and I was under the impression that there were no rules. I received tweets from staff at GCI Group that said there were no rules either. You can imagine I wasn’t the slightest bit impressed with this development. Here’s a PR Pro Tip for you, make your communication ambiguous free! I’m a Software Tester so ambiguity and me aren’t friends at all and to be burned by it really galled me.
So here I was with a new Barbie, my old Barbie (I was allowed to keep her) and no ideas. I was really beginning to detest Barbie once more. She was the damn albatross around my neck (If you aren’t getting my albatross references will you please go out and read The Rime of the Ancient Mariner already!). I really had no idea what I was going to do; the hoochie mama dress had to stay. I was quickly losing motivation.
Thank god for Dean Davidson. I was at his place on Saturday borrowing jewellery for Prom V: Noir. I managed to convince him to create jewellery for my Barbie. The only thing you need to dress up a LBD is some fabulous Dean Davidson pieces. Barbie was slowly turning into a tribute to Dean. So Dean and I designed a statement necklace, earrings and bracelets. The earrings and bracelets had Dean’s signature brushed metal finish. They are pretty damn cute. I added a Dean Davidson book and silver ribbon for a belt.
So, I dropped Barbie off on Sunday before the Izma show. The other Barbies look amazing and once I get better photos I will post them all. That is my story about the two Barbies and the frustrating ride its been. I know which one I like better, what do you guys think?
