What does Barbara think? Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 Edition


Lanvin Ready to Wear - Fall 2010
Lanvin Fall Winter 2010 - 2011

I love it when the WWD asks the buyers their opinions of the collections. I’m always interested in what the buyers/retailers think of the collections. For the last few seasons I’ve been posting about Barbara Atkin’s feelings on the show. Fall Winter 2010 – 2011 is no exception.

New York

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew:

Trends with legs: “The drop in hems of skirts will change jackets and shoes; fabric folding and ruffling; camel, the new color of luxury; high-waisted full pants and bolder shoulders on jackets; enveloping coats; military details; sculptural tailoring and geometric body-conscious clothing.”

Favorite collections: “3.1 Phillip Lim for the beautiful shearlings, knitwear, dresses, outerwear and tunics; Victoria Beckham’s sensuous dresses; Michael Kors’ long knit skirts; Oscar de la Renta’s beautiful refinement and Old-World luxury; Marc Jacobs’ simple, elegant clothes; Reed Krakoff’s utilitarian sportswear; Alexander Wang; Philip Lim, and The Row — style that’s relevant to many generations.”(source)

Milan

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew: “The designer business is on an upswing and our budgets will reflect this positive trend as we focus on more depth within the collections. Clothes were steeped in luxury highlighting abundant furs, leathers and suedes, feminine lace work; artisanal use of collage and patchwork effects; accents through Lurex and lamé touches and trims, and knitwear as art wear. All of these things restore our faith and trust in Made-in-Italy clothes. Our shopping list consists of coats; leather; printed novelty skinny pants and leggings; silk blouses; power suits; knitwear, particularly sweater dresses, sweater coats and cardigans; longer hemlines for skirts and coats, and fur for coats, trims and accessories. Our favorite collections were Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Missoni and Dolce & Gabbana.”(source)

Paris

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew: “Paris was exceptionally powerful. There was the stripped-down maturity we started seeing in Milan, but it was particularly special in Paris. There was a lot of structure, architectural design and detail. It was an amazing coat season from every collection, plus fur, leather and beautiful sculpted knits. We liked the longer hemline, which signals a change in everything, starting with the shoe, which will become more feminine. We had so many favorites: Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Celine, Givenchy, Balmain. One newcomer we’re bringing in is Gareth Pugh. We’re very optimistic. We’ve seen people coming back into the stores, looking for quality clothes. Our budgets are growing for Celine, Lanvin — for all of the brands we want to build. Business is on the upswing so we want to support that.” (source)

By Anita Clarke

Anita Clarke is an Engineering Storyteller and the founder of the fashion blog “I want – I got.” She was one of the first and most prominent online fashion writers in Toronto and Canada.